The theory of weak turbulence developed for wind-driven waves in theoretical works and in recent extensive numerical studies concludes that non-dimensional features of self-similar wave growth (i.e. wave energy and characteristic frequency) have to be scaled by internal wave-field properties (fluxes of energy, momentum or wave action) rather than by external attributes (e.g. wind speed) which have been widely adopted since the 1960s. Based on the hypothesis of dominant nonlinear transfer, an asymptotic weakly turbulent relation for the total energy ϵ and a characteristic wave frequency ω* was derived The self-similarity parameter αss was found in the numerical duration-limited experiments and was shown to be naturally varying in a relatively narrow range, being dependent on the energy growth rate only.In this work, the analytical and numerical conclusions are further verified by means of known field dependencies for wave energy growth and peak frequency downshift. A comprehensive set of more than 20 such dependencies, obtained over almost 50 years of field observations, is analysed. The estimates give αss very close to the numerical values. They demonstrate that the weakly turbulent law has a general value and describes the wave evolution well, apart from the earliest and full wave development stages when nonlinear transfer competes with wave input and dissipation.
3 November 2005 in Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics
The results of theoretical and numerical study of the Hasselmann kinetic equation for deep water waves in presence of wind input and dissipation are presented. The guideline of the study: nonlinear transfer is the dominating mechanism of wind-wave evolution. In other words, the most important features of wind-driven sea could be understood in a framework of conservative Hasselmann equation while forcing and dissipation determine parameters of a solution of the conservative equation. The conservative Hasselmann equation has a rich family of self-similar solutions for duration-limited and fetch-limited wind-wave growth. These solutions are closely related to classic stationary and homogeneous weak-turbulent Kolmogorov spectra and can be considered as non-stationary and non-homogeneous generalizations of these spectra. It is shown that experimental parameterizations of wind-wave spectra (e.g. JONSWAP spectrum) that imply self-similarity give a solid basis for comparison with theoretical predictions. In particular, the self-similarity analysis predicts correctly the dependence of mean wave energy and mean frequency on wave age Cp / U10. This comparison is detailed in the extensive numerical study of duration-limited growth of wind waves. The study is based on algorithm suggested by Webb (1978) that was first realized as an operating code by Resio and Perrie (1989, 1991). This code is now updated: the new version is up to one order faster than the previous one. The new stable and reliable code makes possible to perform massive numerical simulation of the Hasselmann equation with different models of wind input and dissipation. As a result, a strong tendency of numerical solutions to self-similar behavior is shown for rather wide range of wave generation and dissipation conditions. We found very good quantitative coincidence of these solutions with available results on duration-limited growth, as well as with experimental parametrization of fetch-limited spectra JONSWAP in terms of wind-wave age Cp / U10.
Extensive numerical simulations of fetch-limited growth of wind-driven waves are analysed within two approaches: a ‘traditional’ wind-speed scaling first proposed by Kitaigorodskii (Bull. Acad. Sci. USSR, Geophys. Ser., Engl. Transl., vol. N1, 1962, p. 105) in the early 1960s and an alternative weakly turbulent scaling developed recently by Badulin et al. (J. Fluid Mech.591, 2007, 339–378). The latter one uses spectral fluxes of wave energy, momentum and action as physical scales of the problem and allows for advanced qualitative and quantitative analysis of wind-wave growth and features of air–sea interaction. In contrast, the traditional approach is shown to be descriptive rather than proactive. Numerical simulations are conducted on the basis of the Hasselmann kinetic equation for deep-water waves in a wide range of wind speeds from 5 to 30 m s −1 and for the ideal case of fetch-limited growth: permanent wind blowing perpendicularly to a straight coastline. Two different wave input functions, Sin, and two methods for calculating the nonlinear transfer term Snl (Gaussian quadrature method, or GQM, a quasi-exact method based on the use of Gaussian quadratures, and the discrete interaction approximation, or DIA) are used in the simulations. Comparison of the corresponding results firstly shows the relevance of the analysis of wind-wave growth in terms of the proposed weakly turbulent scaling, and secondly, allows us to highlight some critical points in the modelling of wind-generated waves. Three stages of wind-wave development corresponding to qualitatively different balance of the source terms, Sin, Sdiss and Snl, are identified: initial growth, growing sea and fully developed sea. Validity of the asymptotic weakly turbulent approach for the stage of growing wind sea is determined by the dominance of nonlinear transfers, which results in a rigid link between spectral fluxes and wave energy. This stage of self-similar growth is investigated in detail and presented as a consequence of three sub-stages of qualitatively different coupling of air flow and growing wind waves. The key self-similarity parameter of the asymptotic theory is estimated to be αss = 0.68 ± 0.1.Further prospects of wind-wave modelling in the context of the presented weakly turbulent scaling are discussed.
Assuming resonant nonlinear wave interactions to be the dominant physical mechanism of growing wind-driven seas we propose a concise relationship between instantaneous wave steepness and time or fetch of wave development expressed in dimensionless wave periods or lengths. This asymptotic physical law derived from the first principles of the theory of weak turbulence does not contain wind speed explicitly. The validity of this law is illustrated by results of numerical simulations, in situ measurements of growing wind seas and wind-wave tank observations. The impact of this new view of sea-wave physics is discussed in the context of conventional approaches to wave modelling and forecasting.
We present a self‐consistent analytic theory of the wind‐driven sea—the weak‐turbulent theory. The base statement of the theory is that the four‐wave resonant interactions play the leading role in the energy balance of the wind‐driven sea. We study the exact solution of the stationary wave kinetic equation and the self‐similar solutions of wave kinetic equation both in fetch‐ and duration‐limited cases. The theory makes possible to explain the nature of universal power‐like energy spectra as well as the power‐like dependence of the total wave energy and peak frequency from the fetch and the duration.
The work suggests a simple qualitative model of the wind wave ‘horse-shoe’ patterns often seen on the sea surface. The model is aimed at explaining the persistent character of the patterns and their specific asymmetric shape. It is based on the idea that the dominant physical processes are quintet resonant interactions, input due to wind and dissipation, which balance each other. These processes are described at the lowest order in nonlinearity. The consideration is confined to the most essential modes: the central (basic) harmonic and two symmetric oblique satellites, the most rapidly growing ones due to the class II instability. The chosen harmonics are phase locked, i.e. all the waves have equal phase velocities in the direction of the basic wave. This fact along with the symmetry of the satellites ensures the quasi-stationary character of the resulting patterns. Mathematically the model is a set of three coupled ordinary differential equations for the wave amplitudes. It is derived starting with the integro-differential formulation of water wave equations (Zakharov's equation) modified by taking into account small (of order of quartic nonlinearity) non-conservative effects. In the derivation the symmetry properties of the unperturbed Hamiltonian system were used by taking special canonical transformations, which allow one exactly to reduce the Zakharov equation to the model. The study of system dynamics is focused on its qualitative aspects. It is shown that if the non-conservative effects are neglected one cannot obtain solutions describing persistent asymmetric patterns, but the presence of small non-conservative effects changes drastically the system dynamics at large times. The main new feature is attractive equilibria, which are essentially distinct from the conservative ones. For the existence of the attractors a balance between nonlinearity and non-conservative effects is necessary. A wide class of initial configurations evolves to the attractors of the system, providing a likely scenario for the emergence of the long-lived three-dimensional wind wave patterns. The resulting structures reproduce all the main features of the experimentally observed horse-shoe patterns. In particular, the model provides the characteristic ‘crescent’ shape of the wave fronts oriented forward and the front-back asymmetry of the wave profiles.