Currents effects on waves have led to many developments in numerical wave modeling over the past two decades, from numerical choices to parameterizations. The performance of numerical models in conditions with strong currents is reviewed here, and observed strong effects of opposed currents and modulations of wave heights by tidal currents in several typical situations are interpreted. For current variations on small scales, the rapid steepening of the waves enhances wave breaking. Using different parameterizations with a dissipation rate proportional to some measure of the wave steepness to the fourth power, the results are very different, none being fully satisfactory, which points to the need for more measurements and further refinements of parameterizations. For larger-scale current variations, the observed modifications of the sea state are mostly explained by refraction of waves over currents and relative wind effects, that is, the wind speed relevant for wave generation is the speed in the frame of reference moving with the near-surface current. It is shown that introducing currents in wave models can reduce the errors on significant wave heights by more than 30% in some macrotidal environments, such as the coast of Brittany, in France. This large impact of currents is not confined to the locations where the currents are strongest, but also downwave from strong current gradients.

The formation mechanism of extreme waves in the coastal areas is still an open contemporary problem in fluid mechanics and ocean engineering. Previous studies have shown that the transition of water depth from a deeper to a shallower zone increases the occurrence probability of large waves. Indeed, more efforts are required to improve the understanding of extreme wave statistics variations in such conditions. To achieve this goal, large scale experiments of unidirectional irregular waves propagating over a variable bottom profile considering different transition water depths were performed. The validation of two highly nonlinear numerical models was performed for one representative case. The collected data were examined and interpreted by using spectral or bispectral analysis as well as statistical analysis. The higher probability of occurrence of large waves was confirmed by the statistical distributions built from the measured free surface elevation time series as well as by the local maximum values of skewness and kurtosis around the end of the slope. Strong second-order nonlinear effects were highlighted as waves propagate into the shallower region. A significant amount of wave energy was transmitted to low-frequency modes. Based on the experimental data, we conclude that the formation of extreme waves is mainly related to the second-order effect, which is also responsible for the generation of long waves. It is shown that higher-order nonlinearities are negligible in these sets of experiments. Several existing models for wave height distributions were compared and analysed. It appears that the generalised Boccotti’s distribution can predict the exceedance of large wave heights with good confidence.

Experiments have been performed in the Shallow Water Wave Basin of DHI (Hørsholm, Denmark), on large arrays of up to 25 heaving point absorber type Wave Energy Converters (WECs), for a range of geometric layout configurations and wave conditions. WEC response and modifications of the wave field are measured to provide data for understanding WEC array interactions and to evaluate array interaction numerical models. Each WEC consists of a buoy with a diameter of 0.315 m and power take-off (PTO) is modeled by realizing friction based energy dissipation through damping of the WEC’s motion. Wave gauges are located within and around the WEC array. Wave conditions studied include regular, polychromatic, long- and short-crested irregular waves. A rectilinear arrangement of WEC support structures is employed such that several array configurations can be studied. In this paper, the experimental arrangement and the obtained database are presented. Also, results for wave height attenuation downwave a rectilinear array of 25 heaving WECs are presented, for the case of irregular waves. Up to 16.3% and 18.1% (long-crested) and 11.2% and 18.1% (short-crested waves) reduction in significant wave height is observed downwave the WEC array, for the radiated wave field only and for the combination of incident-diffracted-radiated (perturbed) wave field, respectively. Using spectra at different locations within and around the array, the wave field modifications are presented and discussed.

The formation of abnormal (extreme) waves in coastal areas can be triggered by wave–seabed interaction, in particular by steep bottom changes. As an incident equilibrium sea state passes over a submerged step or bar, non-equilibrium dynamics appears locally and forces the sea state to a new, finite-depth equilibrium along with strong non-Gaussian statistics and an intensified occurrence probability of large waves. In this study, the experimental case Run 3 reported by Trulsen et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 882, 2020, R2) has been investigated numerically with a fully nonlinear model. Furthermore, as both shoaling and de-shoaling effects exist in the set-up with a bar-profile bottom, an additional simulation with a step-profile bottom is performed to isolate the de-shoaling effects. The model is proven excellent by the confrontation of the measurements and simulated results in both time and spectral domains. Strong non-Gaussian behaviour of the sea state is highlighted after the up-slope transition by combining spectral and bi-spectral analyses, and characteristic parameters. With a harmonic extraction approach, we show evidence that both second- and third-order effects triggered by the non-equilibrium dynamics significantly enhance the local kurtosis and occurrence of extreme waves. The statistics of kinematics shows the asymmetry of the wave field evolves somewhat independently in the horizontal and vertical directions. By comparing the simulations of bar- and step-profile cases, we find the de-shoaling process is responsible for the upstream modulation of nonlinear and dispersive parameters, and the enhancement of kurtosis of both horizontal and vertical velocities and horizontal acceleration over the down-slope area.