Elderberry (Sambucus nigra L., fructus) is a very potent herbal drug, deriving from traditional European medicine (TEM). Ripe elderberries are rich in anthocyanins, flavonols, flavonol esters, flavonol glycosides, lectins, essential oils, unsaturated fatty acids and vitamins. Nevertheless, unripe elderflower fruits contain a certain amount of sambunigrin, a toxic cyanogenic glycoside, whose concentration decreases in the ripening process. Therefore, quality assurance must be carried out. The standard method described in literature is the photometric determination (pH-differential method) of the total anthocyanin content (TAC) that is the highest when the berries are ripe. The drawback of the pH-differential method is the extensive sample preparation and the low accuracy of the method. Therefore, the goal of this publication was to develop a fast non invasive near-infrared (NIR) method for the determination of TAC in whole berries. TAC of elderberries was measured using pH-differentiation method where TAC values of 632.87 mg/kg to 4342.01 mg/kg were measured. Additionally, cyanidin-3-O-glucoside, cyanidin-3-O-sambubioside and cyanidin-3-O-sambubioside-5-O-glucoside which represent more than 98% of TAC in elderberry were quantified using ultra high performance liquid chromatography-multiple wavelength detection—ultra high resolution-quadrupole-time of flight-mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MWD-UHR-Q-TOF-MS) and their sum parameter was determined, ranging between 499.43 mg/kg and 8199.07 mg/kg. Using those two methods as reference, whole elderberries were investigated by NIR spectroscopy with the Büchi NIRFlex N-500 benchtop spectrometer. According to the constructed partial least squares regression (PLSR) models the performance was as follows: a relative standard deviation (RSD_PLSR) of 13.5% and root mean square error of calibration (RMSECV/RMSEC) of 1.31 for pH-differentiation reference and a RSD_PLSR of 12.9% and RMSECV/RMSEC of 1.28 for the HPLC reference method. In this study, we confirm that it is possible to perform a NIR screening for TAC in whole elderberries. Using quantum chemical calculations, we obtained detailed NIR band assignments of the analyzed compounds and interpreted the wavenumber regions established in PLSR models as meaningful for anthocyanin content. The NIR measurement turned out to be a fast and cost-efficient alternative for the determination of TAC compared to pH-differential method and UHPLC-MWD-UHR-Q-TOF-MS. Due to the benefit of no sample preparation and extraction the technology can be considered as sustainable green technology. With the above mentioned inversely proportional ratio of TAC to total amount of toxic cyanogenic glycosides, NIR proves to be a reliable screening method for the ideal harvest time with maximal content of TAC and lowest content of cyanogenic glycosides in elderberry.

Inflammatory skin diseases, including atopic dermatitis (AD) and psoriasis, are increasing in populations worldwide. The treatment of patients with AD and other forms of skin inflammation is mainly based on the use of topical corticosteroids or calcineurin inhibitors, which can cause significant side effects with long-term use. Therefore, there is a great need for the development of more effective and less toxic anti-inflammatory agents suitable for the treatment of chronic skin lesions. Here, we screened a number of strains from the ASIB 505 terrestrial algae collection and identified a green algae Chromochloris zofingiensis with pronounced anti-inflammatory properties. We found that a crude nonpolar extract of C. zofingiensis (ID name NAE_2022C), grown upon nitrogen deprivation, acts as a bioactive substance by inhibiting TNFR/NF-κB responses in human skin keratinocyte HaCaT cells. We also found that NAE_2022C suppressed the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokine tumor necrosis factor α (TNFα) and several Th1- and Th2-related chemokines in a reconstituted human epidermis. The TNFR/NF-κB pathway analysis showed multiple inhibitory effects at different levels and disclosed a direct targeting of IKKβ by the extract. Bioassay-guided fractionation followed by high-resolution mass spectrometry detected diacylglyceryl-trimethylhomoserine (DGTS), Lyso-DGTS (LDGTS), 5-phenylvaleric acid, theophylline and oleamide as leading metabolites in the active fraction of NAE_2022C. Further analysis identified betaine lipid DGTS (32:0) as one of the active compounds responsible for the NAE_2022C-mediated NF-κB suppression. Overall, this study presents an approach for the isolation, screening, and identification of anti-inflammatory secondary metabolites produced by soil algae.

Different types of microshoot cultures (agar, stationary liquid, agitated, and bioreactors) of Verbena officinalis were optimized for biomass growth and the production of phenylpropanoid glycosides and phenolic acids. Using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography with high-resolution time-of-flight mass spectrometry, the presence of verbascoside, isoverbascoside, leucoseptoside A/isomers, and cistanoside D/isomer was confirmed in the methanolic extracts obtained from all types of in vitro cultures. The compound’s content was determined by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography. The main metabolites in biomass extracts were verbascoside and isoverbascoside (maximum 4881.61 and 451.80 mg/100 g dry weight (DW)). In the soil-grown plant extract, verbascoside was also dominated (1728.97 mg/100 g DW). The content of phenolic acids in the analyzed extracts was below 24 mg/100 g DW. The highest radical scavenging activity was found in the biomass extract from agitated cultures, the most effective reducing power in agar culture extract, and the highest chelating activity in extract from bioreactor cultures. The extracts showed significantly stronger bacteriostatic and bactericidal activity against Gram-positive bacteria (minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 0.3–2.2 mg/mL and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) of 0.6–9 mg/mL) than against Gram-negative bacteria (MIC 0.6–9 mg/mL, MBC of 0.6–18 mg/mL). The biomass extract from liquid stationary culture showed the strongest antibacterial activity, while the extract from soil-grown herb had the lowest.

Achillea millefolium L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from A. millefolium have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from A. millefolium obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of A. millefolium were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography–quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC₅₀ values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of A. millefolium require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.

Background: Skin aging is a complex biological process affected by internal and external factors that disrupt the skin structure, especially in sun-exposed areas. Elastin and collagen in the dermis layer, responsible for the skin’s resistance and elasticity, have been the main subject of research. Since tyrosinase (TYR) is an enzyme found in different organisms and plays an essential role in melanogenesis, inhibitors of this enzyme have been the target mechanism for skin-bleaching product research. Methods: We selected the plant species Cotinus coggygria Scop., Garcinia mangostana L., Pistacia vera L., Vitis vinifera L., and propolis, which exhibited activity against a minimum of three target enzymes—elastase, collagenase, and TYR—in our previous screening study to find the suitable raw material for a cosmetic product. In the current research, the extracts from these samples were tested through a cell-free enzyme assay using validated elastase, collagenase, and TYR inhibition kits. We also performed the safety and efficacy tests of the selected extracts with 2D/3D cell culture methods. Results: Our data revealed the propolis extract among the tested ones displayed remarkable anti-inflammatory activity in the 2D (NF-κB induction: 10.81%) and 3D assays. Cotinus coggygria leaf and Garcinia mangostana shell extracts exhibited anti-inflammatory activity in the 2D luciferase reporter assay via TNFα addition. C. coggygria leaf, V. vinifera (grape) seed, and propolis extracts were selected for testing in 3D cell culture methods based on the 2D cytotoxicity results with cell viability values of 54.75%, 93.19%, and 98.64% at 34.25 µg/mL, respectively. The general phytochemical profiles of these three extracts were examined in terms of 53 phenolic compounds with LC-MS/MS, revealing that quinic acid, epicatechin, and acacetin were the dominant phenolics among the tested ones. Conclusions: It is the first study conducted to evaluate the use of the extracts indicated above in cosmetics by employing procedures involving 3D cell culture.

The EFSA-approved claim that olive oil is beneficial for cardiovascular health suffers from ambiguities that lead to a vague and potentially subjective interpretation of the underlying analytical data. Misunderstandings among customers, but also market distortions are possible consequences. In this study, a rapid and simple analytical technique is presented that circumvents the ambiguity by measuring levels of putative health-promoting compounds as the equivalent of tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol, cleaving such moieties from more complex constituents such as oleuropein and oleocanthal. Since the direct hydrolysis of the olive oil is the central element of the process, the reaction temperature, time, reagent concentration and reagent type were optimized. In addition, the influence of co-solvents, which might support the intermittent miscibility of the two phases during hydrolysis, was investigated. The analytical and economic implications are discussed particularly in the context of a commonly used technique.