This review refers to botanical, ecological and phytochemical characteristics of Vitis vinifera L. (vine grape)–a species, the valuable properties of which are widely exploited in the food industry and in recent times in medicine as well as in phytocosmetology. The general characteristic of V. vinifera, followed by the chemical composition and biological activities of different extracts obtained from the plant (fruit, skin, pomace, seed, leaf and stem extracts), are provided. A concise review of the extraction conditions of grape metabolites and the methods of their analysis are also presented. The biological activity of V. vinifera is determined by the presence of high contents of polyphenols, mainly flavonoids (e.g., quercetin, kaempferol), catechin derivatives, anthocyanins and stilbenoids (e.g., trans-resveratrol, trans-ε-viniferin). The review pays particular attention to the application of V. vinifera in cosmetology. It has been proven that V. vinifera possesses strong cosmetological-related properties, such as anti-ageing properties, anti-inflammatory properties and skin-whitening properties. Moreover, a review of studies on V. vinifera biological activities, which are of particular interest for dermatologic problems, are disclosed. Furthermore, the work also emphasises the importance of biotechnological studies on V. vinifera. The last part of the review is addressed to the safety of the use of V. vinifera.

Grape canes are waste biomass of viticulture containing bioactive polyphenols valuable in cosmetics. Whereas several studies reported the cosmetic activities of E-resveratrol, only few described the potential of E-ε-viniferin, the second major constituent of grape cane extracts (GCE), and none of them investigated GCE as a natural blend of polyphenols for cosmetic applications. In this study, we considered the potential of GCE from polyphenol-rich grape varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. HPLC analysis was performed to quantify major polyphenols in GCE i.e., catechin, epicatechin, E-resveratrol, E-piceatannol, ampelopsin A, E-ε-viniferin, hopeaphenol, isohopeaphenol, E-miyabenol C and E-vitisin B from selected cultivars. Skin whitening potential through tyrosinase inhibition assay and the activation capacity of cell longevity protein (SIRT1) of GCE were compared to pure E-resveratrol and E-ε-viniferin. Drug-likeness of GCE polyphenols were calculated, allowing the prediction of skin permeability and bioavailability. Finally, the present data enabled the consideration of GCE from polyphenol-rich varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients in accordance with green chemistry practices.

The purpose of the research was to obtain new derivatives of natural triterpene lupeol and to evaluate their potential as active substances in the treatment of skin damage. Four new lupeol esters (propionate, succinate, isonicotinate and acetylsalicylate) and lupeol acetate were obtained using an eco-friendly synthesis method. In the esterification process, the commonly used hazardous reagents in this type of synthesis were replaced by safe ones. This unconventional, eco-friendly, method is particularly important because the compounds obtained are potentially active substances in skin care formulations. Even trace amounts of hazardous reagents can have a toxic effect on damaged or irritated tissues. The molecular structure of the esters were confirmed by ¹H NMR, ¹³C NMR and IR spectroscopy methods. Their crystal structures were determined using XRD method. To complete the analysis of their characteristics, physicochemical properties (melting point, lipophilicity, water solubility) and biological activity of the lupeol derivatives were studied. Results of an irritant potential test, carried out on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE), confirmed that the synthesized lupeol derivatives are not cytotoxic and they stimulate a process of human cell proliferation. The safety of use for tested compounds was determined in a cell viability test (cytotoxicity detection kit based on the measurement of lactate dehydrogenase activity) for keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The results obtained showed that the modification of lupeol structure improve its bioavailability and activity. All of the esters penetrate the stratum corneum and the upper layers of the dermis better than the maternal lupeol. Lupeol isonicotinate, acetate and propionate were the most effective compounds in a stimulation of the human skin cell proliferation process. This combination resulted in an increase in the concentration of cells of more than 30% in comparison to control samples. The results indicate that the chemical modification of lupeol allows to obtain promising active substances for treatment of skin damage, including thermal, chemical and radiation burns.

Grape downy mildew is a devastating disease worldwide and new molecular phenotyping tools are required to detect metabolic changes associated to plant disease symptoms. In this purpose, we used UPLC-DAD-MS-based semi-targeted metabolomics to screen downy mildew symptomatic leaves that expressed oil spots (6 dpi, days post-infection) and necrotic lesions (15 dpi) under natural infections in the field. Leaf extract analyses enabled the identification of 47 metabolites belonging to the primary metabolism including 6 amino acids and 1 organic acid, as well as an important diversity of specialized metabolites including 9 flavonols, 11 flavan-3-ols, 3 phenolic acids, and stilbenoids with various degree of polymerization (DP) including 4 stilbenoids DP1, 8 stilbenoids DP2, and 4 stilbenoids DP3. Principal component analysis (PCA) was applied as unsupervised multivariate statistical analysis method to reveal metabolic variables that were affected by the infection status. Univariate and multivariate statistics revealed 33 and 27 metabolites as relevant infection biomarkers at 6 and 15 dpi, respectively. Correlation-based networks highlighted a general decrease of flavonoid-related metabolites, whereas stilbenoid DP1 and DP2 concentrations increased upon downy mildew infection. Stilbenoids DP3 were identified only in necrotic lesions representing late biomarkers of downy mildew infection.

Psoriasis is a chronic disorder that causes a rash with itchy, scaly patches. It affects nearly 2–5% of the worldwide population and has a negative effect on patient quality of life. A variety of therapeutic approaches, e.g., glucocorticoid topical therapy, have shown limited efficacy with systemic adverse reactions. Therefore, novel therapeutic agents and physicochemical formulations are in constant need and should be obtained and tested in terms of effectiveness and minimization of side effects. For that reason, the aim of our study was to design and obtain various hybrid systems, nanoemulgel–macroemulsion and nanoemulgel–oleogel (bigel), as vehicles for ursolic acid (UA) and to verify their potential as topical formulations used in psoriasis treatment. Obtained topical formulations were characterized by conducting morphological, rheological, texture, and stability analysis. To determine the safety and effectiveness of the prepared ursolic acid carriers, in vitro studies on human keratinocyte cell-like HaCaT cells were performed with cytotoxicity analysis for individual components and each formulation. Moreover, a kinetic study of ursolic acid release from the obtained systems was conducted. All of the studied UA-loaded systems were well tolerated by keratinocyte cells and had suitable pH values and stability over time. The obtained formulations exhibit an apparent viscosity, ensuring the appropriate time of contact with the skin, ease of spreading, soft consistency, and adherence to the skin, which was confirmed by texture tests. The release of ursolic acid from each of the formulations is followed by a slow, controlled release according to the Korsmeyer–Peppas and Higuchi models. The elaborated systems could be considered suitable vehicles to deliver triterpene to psoriatic skin.