This review refers to botanical, ecological and phytochemical characteristics of Vitis vinifera L. (vine grape)–a species, the valuable properties of which are widely exploited in the food industry and in recent times in medicine as well as in phytocosmetology. The general characteristic of V. vinifera, followed by the chemical composition and biological activities of different extracts obtained from the plant (fruit, skin, pomace, seed, leaf and stem extracts), are provided. A concise review of the extraction conditions of grape metabolites and the methods of their analysis are also presented. The biological activity of V. vinifera is determined by the presence of high contents of polyphenols, mainly flavonoids (e.g., quercetin, kaempferol), catechin derivatives, anthocyanins and stilbenoids (e.g., trans-resveratrol, trans-ε-viniferin). The review pays particular attention to the application of V. vinifera in cosmetology. It has been proven that V. vinifera possesses strong cosmetological-related properties, such as anti-ageing properties, anti-inflammatory properties and skin-whitening properties. Moreover, a review of studies on V. vinifera biological activities, which are of particular interest for dermatologic problems, are disclosed. Furthermore, the work also emphasises the importance of biotechnological studies on V. vinifera. The last part of the review is addressed to the safety of the use of V. vinifera.

Hydrophilic phytochemicals, such as flavonoids and phenolic acids, possess important biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer effects. However, their application is hindered by low membrane permeability, poor chemical stability, and limited skin penetration. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of advanced delivery strategies aimed at enhancing the solubility, bioavailability, and therapeutic efficacy of selected hydrophilic compounds. Specifically, it focuses on the encapsulation of flavonoids such as quercetin, luteolin, and apigenin, as well as phenolic acids including ferulic acid, caffeic acid, and chlorogenic acid. The review discusses various nanocarrier systems: liposomes, niosomes, exosomes, and polymeric nanoparticles (e.g., nanocapsules, nanospheres) and compares their structural characteristics, preparation methods, and functional benefits. These delivery systems improve the physicochemical stability of active compounds, enable controlled and targeted release, and enhance skin and cellular absorption. Despite certain challenges related to large-scale production and regulatory constraints, such approaches offer promising solutions for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic application of hydrophilic plant-derived compounds.

The primary purpose of this work was the initiation and optimization of shoot cultures of different Vitis vinifera L. cultivars: cv. Chardonnay, cv. Hibernal, cv. Riesling, cv. Johanniter, cv. Solaris, cv. Cabernet Cortis, and cv. Regent. Cultures were maintained on 30-day growth cycles using two media, Murashige and Skoog (MS) and Schenk and Hildebrandt (SH), with various concentrations of plant growth regulators. Tested media (‘W1’–‘W4’) contained varying concentrations of 6-benzylaminopurine (BA) in addition to indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) and 1-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA). High performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (UPLC–MS) was used for metabolomic profiling. In all tested extracts, 45 compounds were identified (6 amino acids, 4 phenolic acids, 13 flavan-3-ols, 3 flavonols, and 19 stilbenoids). Principal component analysis (PCA) was performed to assess the influence of the genotype and medium on metabolic content. PCA showed that metabolic content was mainly influenced by genotype and to a lesser extent by medium composition. MS media variants induced the amino acid, procyanidin, and flavan-3-ol production. In addition, the antioxidant potential and anti-tyrosinase activity was measured spectrophotometrically. The studies on antioxidant activity clearly reveal very high efficiency in reducing free radicals in the tested extracts. The strongest tyrosinase inhibition capacity was proved for shoots cv. Hibernal cultured in SH medium and supplemented with NAA, with an inhibition of 17.50%. These studies show that in vitro cultures of V. vinifera cvs. can be proposed as an alternative source of plant material that can be potentially used in cosmetic industry.

Plant callus cultures are increasingly explored as a source of skin-care ingredients because they enable the production of biomass rich in bioactive metabolites under controlled and reproducible conditions. Callus cultures offer a promising platform for the controlled production of bioactive metabolites independent of environmental and seasonal variability, making them attractive sources of innovative dermatological raw materials. In the present study, callus cultures of six grapevine (Vitis vinifera L.) cultivars (Chardonnay, Hibernal, Regent, Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc, and Rondo) were established and optimized to produce biologically active extracts with potential cosmetic applications. Cultures were maintained on Murashige and Skoog (MS) and Schenk and Hildebrandt (SH) media supplemented with different combinations of plant growth regulators. Biomass growth was evaluated using the growth index (Gi), while phytochemical profiling was performed using UPLC-MS/MS. A total of twelve metabolites were identified, representing several compound classes, including amino acids, phenolic acid (e.g., gallic acid), flavan-3-ols, and stilbenoids. Distinct cultivar- and medium-dependent differences in metabolite accumulation were noted. The highest total metabolite content was detected in cv. Marechal Foch cultivated on MS medium, reaching 756.85 mg/g DW, while extracts of cvs. Chardonnay and Hibernal grown on SH medium accumulated particularly high levels of stilbenoids. The antioxidant potential of the extracts was assessed using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays, and skin-whitening activity was evaluated through tyrosinase inhibition testing. Seyval Blanc extracts demonstrated the strongest antioxidant potential in the FRAP assay (3.10 mM TE/L), whereas Chardonnay cultured on MS medium exhibited the highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity (65.06%). These findings demonstrate that grapevine callus cultures represent a valuable and sustainable source of antioxidant and skin-whitening compounds and highlight their considerable potential as multifunctional active ingredients for innovative dermatological formulations.