The energy level and its directional distribution are key observations for understanding the energy balance in the wind-wave spectrum between wind-wave generation, nonlinear interactions, and dissipation. Here, properties of gravity waves are investigated from a fixed platform in the Black Sea, equipped with a stereo video system that resolves waves with frequency f up to 1.4 Hz and wavelengths from 0.6 to 11 m. One representative record is analyzed, corresponding to young wind waves with a peak frequency fp = 0.33 Hz and a wind speed of 13 m s−1. These measurements allow for a separation of the linear waves from the bound second-order harmonics. These harmonics are negligible for frequencies f up to 3 times fp but account for most of the energy at higher frequencies. The full spectrum is well described by a combination of linear components and the second-order spectrum. In the range 2fp to 4fp, the full frequency spectrum decays like f−5, which means a steeper decay of the linear spectrum. The directional spectrum exhibits a very pronounced bimodal distribution, with two peaks on either side of the wind direction, separated by 150° at 4fp. This large separation is associated with a significant amount of energy traveling in opposite directions and thus sources of underwater acoustic and seismic noise. The magnitude of these sources can be quantified by the overlap integral I(f), which is found to increase sharply from less than 0.01 at f = 2fp to 0.11 at f = 4fp and possibly up to 0.2 at f = 5fp, close to the 0.5π value proposed in previous studies.
5 July 2013 in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
New field measurements of 2‐D wave number short wind wave spectra in the wavelength range from few millimeters to few decimeters are reported and discussed. The measurement method is based on stereophotography and image brightness contrast processing. As found, the spectra of decimeter waves are almost isotropic and weakly dependent on the wind speed. Both directional anisotropy and wind sensitivity rapidly increase at wave numbers larger than 100 rad/m. These aspects are consistent with other previously reported optical and radar data. Following these new in situ measurements, a revision of a semiempirical model of short wind wave spectrum is suggested. This revised model can readily be implemented in other studies (radar scattering, air‐sea interaction issues) where detailed knowledge of short wind wave spectra is crucial.
Stereo imaging of the sea surface elevation provides unique field data to investigate the geometry and dynamics of oceanic waves. Typically, this technique allows retrieving the 4-D ocean topography (3-D space + time) at high frequency (up to 15–20 Hz) over a sea surface region of area ~104 m2. Stereo data fill the existing wide gap between sea surface elevation time-measurements, like the local observation provided by wave-buoys, and large-scale ocean observations by satellites. The analysis of stereo images provides a direct measurement of the wavefield without the need of any linear-wave theory assumption, so it is particularly interesting to investigate the nonlinearities of the surface, wave-current interaction, rogue waves, wave breaking, air-sea interaction, and potentially other processes not explored yet. In this context, this open dataset aims to provide, for the first time, valuable stereo measurements collected in different seas and wave conditions to invite the ocean-wave scientific community to continue exploring these data and to contribute to a better understanding of the nature of the sea surface dynamics.
15 March 1997 in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
The vertical structure of wind-driven sea surface currents and the role of wind-wave breaking in its formation are investigated by means of both field experiments and modeling. Analysis of drifter measurements of surface currents in the uppermost 5-m layer at wind speeds from 3 to 15 m s−1 is the experimental starting point of this study. The velocity gradients beneath the surface are found to be 2 to 5 times weaker than in the “wall” boundary layer. Surface wind drift (identified via drift of an artificial slick) with respect to 0.5-m depths is about 0.7%, which is even less than the velocity defect over the molecular sublayer in the wall boundary layer at a smooth surface. To interpret the data, a semiempirical model describing the effect of wave breaking on wind-driven surface currents and subsurface turbulence is proposed. The model elaborates on the idea of direct injection of momentum and energy from wave breaking (including microscale breaking) into the water body. Momentum and energy transported by breaking waves into the water significantly enhance the turbulent mixing and considerably decrease velocity shears as compared to the wall boundary layer. No “artificial” surface roughness scale is needed in the model. From the experimental fact of the existence of cool temperature skin at the sea surface, it is deduced that there is a molecular sublayer at the water side of the sea surface with a thickness that depends on turbulence intensity just beneath the surface. The model predictions are consistent with the reported and other available experimental data.