The vertical structure of wind-driven sea surface currents and the role of wind-wave breaking in its formation are investigated by means of both field experiments and modeling. Analysis of drifter measurements of surface currents in the uppermost 5-m layer at wind speeds from 3 to 15 m s−1 is the experimental starting point of this study. The velocity gradients beneath the surface are found to be 2 to 5 times weaker than in the “wall” boundary layer. Surface wind drift (identified via drift of an artificial slick) with respect to 0.5-m depths is about 0.7%, which is even less than the velocity defect over the molecular sublayer in the wall boundary layer at a smooth surface. To interpret the data, a semiempirical model describing the effect of wave breaking on wind-driven surface currents and subsurface turbulence is proposed. The model elaborates on the idea of direct injection of momentum and energy from wave breaking (including microscale breaking) into the water body. Momentum and energy transported by breaking waves into the water significantly enhance the turbulent mixing and considerably decrease velocity shears as compared to the wall boundary layer. No “artificial” surface roughness scale is needed in the model. From the experimental fact of the existence of cool temperature skin at the sea surface, it is deduced that there is a molecular sublayer at the water side of the sea surface with a thickness that depends on turbulence intensity just beneath the surface. The model predictions are consistent with the reported and other available experimental data.
The results of field observations of breaking of surface spectral peak waves, taken from an oceanographic research platform, are presented. Whitecaps generated by breaking surface waves were detected using video recordings of the sea surface, accompanied by co-located measurements of waves and wind velocity. Whitecaps were separated according to the speed of their movement, c, and then described in terms of spectral distributions of their areas and lengths over c. The contribution of dominant waves to the whitecap coverage varies with the wave age and attains more than 50% when seas are young. As found, the whitecap coverage and the total length of whitecaps generated by dominant waves exhibit strong dependence on the dominant wave steepness, , the former being proportional to . This result supports a parameterization of the dissipation term, used in the WAM model. A semi-empirical model of the whitecap coverage, where contributions of breaking of dominant and equilibrium range waves are separated, is suggested.
The results of a field study of surface film spreading on the sea surface are presented. The experiments were carried out in the coastal zone of the Black Sea in a wide range of wind speeds and wave conditions. Vegetable oil was used for preparing the surfactants. It was found that at moderate and strong wind speeds the slicks take on a shape similar to an ellipse and are orientated in the direction of the air flow. An increase in the speed of the spreading slick along its major axis with strong wind was discovered
This paper reports the results of field measurements of wave breaking modulations by dominant surface waves, taken from the Black Sea research platform at wind speeds ranging from 10 to 20 m/s. Wave breaking events were detected by video recordings of the sea surface synchronized and collocated with the wave gauge measurements. As observed, the main contribution to the fraction of the sea surface covered by whitecaps comes from the breaking of short gravity waves, with phase velocities exceeding 1.25 m/s. Averaging of the wave breaking over the same phases of the dominant long surface waves (LWs, with wavelengths in the range from 32 to 69 m) revealed strong modulation of whitecaps. Wave breaking occurs mainly on the crests of LWs and disappears in their troughs. Data analysis in terms of the modulation transfer function (MTF) shows that the magnitude of the MTF is about 20, it is weakly wind-dependent, and the maximum of whitecapping is windward-shifted from the LW-crest by 15 deg. A simple model of whitecaps modulations by the long waves is suggested. This model is in quantitative agreement with the measurements and correctly reproduces the modulations’ magnitude, phase, and non-sinusoidal shape.