Amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) is a possible alternative to high-nutritional-value crops. Amaranth seeds are considered to be one of the few sources of phytosqualene (up to 8%). The use of squalene and its hydrogenated form squalane in skincare formulations has been steadily increasing, and the demand for these compounds is expected to rise continuously. The aim of this study was to investigate the amaranth oilseed as a potential ingredient for cosmetic applications. First, an experimental design and optimization were carried out in order to obtain amaranth oil rich in squalane instead of squalene through catalytic hydrogenation. Under the optimal conditions, the resulting oil was fully hydrogenated, with higher stability, and more suitable for cosmetic uses. Furthermore, the effect of the addition of amaranth oil and squalane on the rheological and sensory characteristics of moisturizing cream formulations was assessed. As expected, higher contents of oil and polyunsaturated fatty acids were obtained by supercritical CO₂ extraction, and were used for the next step of the experiment. Optimization of the experimental conditions resulted in fully hydrogenated amaranth oil, with higher stability and rich in squalane. Better quality of moisturizing cream formulations was achieved when W/O formulations were enriched with 2% oil, or by adding 1% oil and 1% squalane. The formulation rich in squalane showed a better overall quality compared to other formulations.

Tomato pomace (TP) has previously been identified as a coproduct that is rich in bioactive molecules, with potential beneficial effects for health. For tomato pomace that is composed of the skin, seeds and fibers, the challenge is to recover the molecules of interest trapped in the biopolymers. The use of deep eutectic solvents to extract metabolites from vegetable materials could present some advantages. Four natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were synthesized and characterized by infrared spectroscopy, thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The TP was treated by maceration at moderate temperatures with the NaDESs. We identified 39 extracted molecules by HPLC–DAD, which revealed an abundance of hydroxy/methoxy flavones, flavanols, flavonols, phenolic acids, carotenoids and tannins, as well as a certain selectivity in the extracted molecules. Four cosmetic formulations that included the NaDESs were prepared. The NaDESs showed film-forming properties, which were harnessed for the final formulations, thanks to their biocompatibilities. Finally, the coupling of the extraction and formulation is a way to preserve the quality of the extracts and prepare ecodesigned formulations.