The presence of water in the skin is crucial for maintaining the properties and functions of the skin, in particular its outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum, which consists of a lipid barrier. External exposures can affect the skin’s hydration levels and in turn, alter its mechanical and physical properties. Monitoring these alterations in the skin’s water content can be applicable in clinical, cosmetic, athletic and personal settings. Many techniques measuring this parameter have been investigated, with electrical-based methods currently being widely used in commercial devices. Furthermore, the exploration of optical techniques to measure hydration is growing due to the outcomes observed through the penetration of light at differing levels. This paper comprehensively reviews such measurement techniques, focusing on recent experimental studies and state-of-the-art devices.

Human skin acts as a protective barrier, preserving bodily functions and regulating water loss. Disruption to the skin barrier can lead to skin conditions and diseases, emphasizing the need for skin hydration monitoring. The gold-standard sensing method for assessing skin hydration is the Corneometer, monitoring the skin’s electrical properties. It relies on measuring capacitance and has the advantage of precisely detecting a wide range of hydration levels within the skin’s superficial layer. However, measurement errors due to its front end requiring contact with the skin, combined with the bipolar configuration of the electrodes used and discrepancies due to variations in various interfering analytes, often result in significant inaccuracy and a need to perform measurements under controlled conditions. To overcome these issues, we explore the merits of a different approach to sensing electrical properties, namely, a tetrapolar bioimpedance sensing approach, with the merits of a novel optical sensing modality. Tetrapolar bioimpedance allows for the elimination of bipolar measurement errors, and optical spectroscopy allows for the identification of skin water absorption peaks at wavelengths of 970 nm and 1450 nm. Employing both electrical and optical sensing modalities through a multimodal approach enhances skin hydration measurement sensitivity and validity. This layered approach may be particularly beneficial for minimising errors, providing a more robust and comprehensive tool for skin hydration assessment. An ex vivo desorption experiment was carried out on fresh porcine skin, and an in vivo indicative case study was conducted utilising the developed optical and bioimpedance sensing devices. Expected outcomes were expressed from both techniques, with an increase in the output of the optical sensor voltage and a decrease in bioimpedance as skin hydration decreased. MLR models were employed, and the results presented strong correlations (R-squared = 0.996 and p-value = 6.45 × 10⁻²¹), with an enhanced outcome for hydration parameters when both modalities were combined as opposed to independently, highlighting the advantage of the multimodal sensing approach for skin hydration assessment.

The monitoring of an individual’s hydration levels is a vital measurement required for the maintenance of a healthy skin barrier function as well as the avoidance of dehydration. The current commercial devices for this measure are typically based on electrical methodologies, such as capacitance, which allows for the extraction of skin hydration using the ionic balance deviations in the stratum corneum. The use of optical-based methods such as near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) has been recently explored for the measurement of skin hydration. Optical approaches have the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin layers and provide detailed information on the optical properties of present water bands. This paper presents the development of a multi-wavelength optical sensor and its capability of assessing skin hydration in an in vitro experiment utilizing porcine skin. Regression analysis of the results showed to be in line with standard reference measurements ( R ² CV=0.952257), validating the accuracy of the developed sensor in measuring dermal water content. A Monte Carlo model of the human skin was also developed and simulated to predict the optical sensor’s performance at variable water concentrations. This model serves as a tool for validating the sensor measurement accuracy. The output from this model gave a standard expectation of the device, which agreed with trends seen in the in vitro work. This research strongly suggests that non-invasive (wearable) NIR based sensors could be used for the comprehensive assessment of skin hydration.