Phytoecdysones from Serratula coronata seem to be promising agents for skincare in patients with psoriasis. The aim of the study was to determine the effects of creams containing the extract of S. coronata on psoriatic lesions. Creams with different formulas were prepared: 0-Lekobaza^®, 1-Lekobaza^®, S. coronata, 2-Lekobaza^®, Salicylic acid, 3-Lekobaza^®, S. coronata, Salicylic acid. After examination of skin penetration and biosafety, the designated cream was applied twice daily for 6 weeks on 72 psoriatic plaques located on elbows or knees. The lesions were assessed at baseline and follow-up of 6 weeks. The lesions area was measured, and severity of scaling, erythema, and infiltration was assessed using a 5-point scale (from 0—none to 4—very severe). Skin hydration and structure, pH, transepidermal water loss, erythema, and melanin index were analyzed instrumentally. Creams 1, 2, and 3 significantly reduced the area of psoriatic plaques. Improvement in erythema and infiltration was observed for creams 1 and 3. Creams 1–3 reduced scaling. Our study confirmed a beneficial effect of creams containing S. coronata extract on psoriatic lesions.

Alopecia constitutes one of the most common dermatological disorders, and its steadily increasing prevalence is a cause for concern. Alopecia can be divided into two main categories, cicatricial/scarring and non-cicatricial/non-scarring, depending on the causes of hair loss and its patterns. The aim of this study was to investigate the relationship between anthropometric and nutritional laboratory parameters in Caucasian adult women and men with non-cicatricial alopecia. A total of 50 patients (37 with non-cicatricial alopecia and 13 healthy controls) were included in the study. Clinical examination and scalp trichoscopy were performed. The anthropometric and nutritional laboratory parameters were collected and analyzed. No statistically significant differences in the laboratory findings were found. The patients with non-cicatricial alopecia were statistically significantly younger as compared to the controls. An elevated risk of hair loss, which was detected among the younger participants, might be associated with a modern lifestyle and the so-called ‘Western diet’. It seems safe to assume that suboptimal nutrition and poor eating habits during childhood might constitute risk factors for early hair loss.

Phytoecdysteroids exert significant anti-inflammatory effects, which makes them valuable ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, data on their use in cosmetics are limited. Here, a new formulation with the extract of the Serratula coronata herb containing phytoecdysteroids was developed. The aim of this study was to perform physicochemical characteristics and evaluate the safety of the creams with S. coronata. Chromatography was used to detect the dominant phytoecdysteroids in the extract. The chemical and physical description of the creams was performed using the following parameters: viscosity, pH, and stability. The microbiological purity (pharmacopoeial methods) and transdermal permeability (Raman spectroscopy) were assessed to ensure the safety of the plant extracts used in the creams. The study confirmed the presence of phytoecdysteroid fractions of the S. coronata herb in the creams (20-hydroxyecdysone, polypodine B, and ajugasterone C). The results indicated that the cosmetics containing the S. coronata extract were chemically and microbiologically stable, thereby contributing to their safety. Their effectiveness is the result of transdermal permeability of 20-hydroxyecdysone. In this study, we demonstrated the importance of the S. coronata extract as a source of bioactive phytoecdysteroids and proved that the extract’s characteristics may make it the key ingredient of safe and stable skincare products that support the treatment of various inflammatory skin diseases. These results were a continuation of those presented in our earlier publication.

Picosecond lasers are gaining increasing popularity in dermatology and aesthetic medicine due to their favorable safety profile and a wide range of therapeutic applications. While originally employed primarily for tattoo removal, their versatility has extended their use to the treatment of various aesthetic skin conditions, including hyperpigmentation, acne scars, stretch marks, and signs of photoaging. Owing to their ultra-short pulse duration, picosecond lasers effectively target pigment particles and stimulate dermal remodeling, offering patients a safe and effective solution to improve the appearance of their skin. The introduction of the picosecond laser into clinical dermatology practice marks a notable advancement in addressing a broad spectrum of skin problems.

Wstęp. Jedną ze zmian zachodzących w skórze wraz z wiekiem jest znaczny spadek poziomu dehydroepiandrosteronu (DHEA) – sterydowego hormonu płciowego, którego niedobór przyczynia się do procesu starzenia się skóry. Ze względu na to w kosmetologii poszukuje się naturalnych związków naśladujących jego działanie. Należą do nich saponiny steroidowe, których przedstawicielem jest diosgenina (fito-DHEA), będąca roślinnym analogiem DHEA. Cel pracy. Celem pracy było określenie wpływu kremu z ekstraktem z nasion kozieradki pospolitej na stan skóry oraz ocena możliwości jego zastosowania w kosmetologii na podstawie badań aplikacyjnych i analizy wyników badań wybranych parametrów skóry, a także oceny właściwości organoleptycznych kremu. Materiał i metody. Opracowany krem z wyciągiem z nasion kozieradki pospolitej przebadano na 20 uczestnikach. Wśród nich znajdowało się 16 kobiet i 4 mężczyzn, w przedziale wiekowym 25-65 lat. Grupa ochotników testowała krem przez 6 tygodni w okolicy przedramienia. Przed testami aplikacyjnymi i po ich zakończeniu zmierzono parametry biofizyczne skóry probantów. Ponadto każdy z nich dokonał oceny organoleptycznej badanego preparatu. Wyniki. Badania parametrów skóry wykazały, że krem zawierający ekstrakt z kozieradki pospolitej wpływa na wzrost stopnia nawodnienia naskórka, normalizację pH skóry, spadek przeznaskórkowej utraty wody (TEWL) oraz indeksu melaniny. Wyniki ankiety oceniającej rozprowadzanie, wchłanianie oraz przyczepność kremu świadczyły o jego dobrych właściwościach aplikacyjnych. Wnioski. Ekstrakt z nasion kozieradki pospolitej może być wykorzystany jako składnik aktywny kremów o działaniu nawilżającym, rozjaśniającym, uszczelniającym barierę naskórka oraz normalizującym pH.

Retinol, a bioactive small molecule of the vitamin A family, contributes epidermal and dermal tissue repair through retinoic acid receptor γ (RARγ)/retinoid X receptor (RXR) receptor-mediated transcriptional regulation of keratinocyte differentiation, extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling, and barrier restoration. However, the relationship between applied concentration, tissue-level regenerative outcomes, and tolerability remains incompletely characterized. This prospective, randomized, single-blind study compared biophysical effects and tolerance of two retinol concentrations in EU-compliant facial creams, high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)-verified as 0.104% and 0.247% (w/w). Thirty-eight women aged 40–61 years (Fitzpatrick phototypes II–III) participated across three independent sub-studies: 28 were randomized to either concentration for 12 weeks; 5 underwent split-face ultrasound imaging (0.247% versus retinol-free control) for 8 weeks; and 5 participated in a tape stripping sub-study quantifying stratum corneum interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1α) and interleukin-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1ra) by ELISA before and after 6 weeks of 0.247% retinol treatment. Main cohort assessments included transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration, melanin, erythema, pH, sebum, biomechanical parameters, and wrinkle grading. Both concentrations significantly improved barrier parameters—hydration, TEWL, brightness, pH, and sebum—with no inter-group differences. In the ultrasound sub-group, 0.247% retinol increased epidermal thickness (+12.4 μm), epidermal density (+3.84%), and dermal density (+1.81%) versus control, consistent with ECM reorganization and epidermal stratification. Biomechanical parameters showed no significant changes, consistent with retinol’s remodeling timeline. Consumer assessment indicated comparable efficacy; 0.247% demonstrated superior smoothing but higher erythema incidence. In the tape stripping sub-study, IL-1α decreased in all participants (median: 25.1 → 13.2 picograms per tape [pg/Tape]; 5/5 concordant), while IL-1ra increased in 4/5 participants (median: 352.8 → 1403.1 picograms per three sequential tapes [pg/3sT]), indicating a directionally consistent shift in the IL-1α/IL-1ra balance; these results are exploratory and require replication in larger cohorts. These findings collectively support clinically meaningful barrier restoration and structural remodeling within current EU safety limits (Commission Regulation EU 2024/996), with 0.104% offering a favorable efficacy-to-tolerability profile for initial therapy.