Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products’ composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals’ decisions.

Quercus suber L. bark (cork) is a sustainable material due to its ability to regenerate. The aim of this work was to explore cork powders, by-products of the cork industry, as sustainable sources of value-added compounds. Two types of cork powder were studied: coarse (P0) and fine (P1). A broad physicochemical characterization was carried out, regarding particle size, color, moisture content, hygroscopicity, pH, heavy metal content, NIR spectra, and volatile compounds. DPPH scavenging activity and total phenolic content were also evaluated for an ethanolic P1 extract. For both powders, Hg, As, Cd and Pb contents were below the acceptable limits and volatile compounds commonly used as fragrances were found in their composition. P1 had a smaller and more homogenous particle size, lighter brownish color, lower pH value, and lower moisture content than P0, and therefore appears to be more suitable for industrial application. P1 ethanolic extract also showed a high scavenging activity and a content of phenolic compounds of 50.46 ± 0.63 mg (as gallic acid equivalents) per g of extract. In conclusion, P1 cork powder seems to be a promising source of upcycled ingredients, such as fragrances and antioxidants, for the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Background/Objectives: Depigmenting cosmetic products are a fast-growing segment of the health products market, driven by consumer demand to address skin hyperpigmentation. Simultaneously, interest in products with a reduced environmental impact is increasing. However, the potential environmental risks, especially in aquatic ecosystems, of depigmenting products remain unexplored. This study assesses the usage frequency of skin depigmenting agents in cosmetic products and compiles data on the biodegradability and acute aquatic toxicity of the most prevalent compounds. Methods: A market analysis of Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies in 2022 identified prevalent depigmenting agents. Scientific evidence on their biodegradability and acute aquatic toxicity was compiled, and when data was unavailable, in silico predictions were conducted. Results: The study identified the ten most-used depigmenting agents in cosmetic products, including hydroxy/keto acids, as well as vitamin C and derivatives, with a usage frequency surpassing 50%. While most were naturally derived and showed low environmental risk, synthetic and highly lipophilic depigmenting agents found in 35 of 70 products (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate/tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and resorcinol derivatives) showed a higher potential for environmental hazard. Conclusions: The findings underscore the need for further research on the presence of these cosmetic ingredients in aquatic ecosystems and a reassessment of regulatory frameworks concerning their environmental impact. Mitigation strategies should emphasize biodegradable alternatives, renewable sources, and molecular modifications to reduce toxicity while maintaining depigmenting efficacy and skin safety. This study provides original insights into commonly used depigmenting agents in the health products market and their chemical structures, offering valuable opportunities for innovation in chemical/pharmaceutical industries.

Background: An emerging practice within the concept of circular beauty involves the upcycling of agro-industrial by-products. Cork processing, for instance, yields by-products like cork powder, which presents an opportunity to create value-added cosmetic ingredients. Building upon our previous research, demonstrating the antioxidant potential of hydroalcoholic extracts derived from two distinct cork powders (P0 and P1), in this work, aqueous extracts were prepared and analyzed. The safety and bioactivities of the newly obtained aqueous extracts, as well as the 30% ethanol extracts, previously reported to be the most promising for skin application, were also evaluated. Methods: Aqueous extracts were obtained from cork powders (P0 and P1) and the identification and quantification of some polyphenols was achieved by liquid chromatography (LC). Antioxidant potential was screened by DPPH method and the bioactivity and safety of extracts were further explored using cell-based assays. Results: All extracts exhibited a reduction in age-related markers, including senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity. Additionally, they demonstrated a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect by suppressing the production of several pro-inflammatory mediators in macrophages upon lipopolysaccharide stimulation. Moreover, the extracts upregulated genes and proteins associated with antioxidant activity, such as heme oxygenase 1. The aqueous extract from P1 powder was especially active in reducing pro-inflammatory mediators, namely the Nos2 gene, inducible nitric oxide protein levels, and nitric oxide production. Moreover, it did not induce skin irritation, as assessed by the EpiSkin test, in compliance with the OECD Test Guidelines. Conclusions: Overall, our findings underscore the potential of aqueous extracts derived from cork waste streams to mitigate various hallmarks of skin aging, including senescence and inflammaging, and their suitability for incorporation into cosmetics formulations. These results warrant further exploration for their application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries and could foster a sustainable and circular bioeconomy.

Quercus suber is considered a sustainable tree mainly due to its outer layer (cork) capacity to regenerate after each harvesting cycle. Cork bark is explored for several application; however, its industrial transformation generates a significant amount of waste. Recently, cork by-products have been studied as a supplier of bioactive ingredients. This work aimed to explore whether near infrared spectroscopy (NIRS), a non-destructive analysis, can be employed as a screening device for selecting cork by-products with higher potential for bioactives extraction. A total of 29 samples of cork extracts were analysed regarding their qualitative composition. Partial least squares (PLS) models were developed for quantification purposes, and R²_P and RER values of 0.65 and above 4, respectively, were obtained. Discrimination models, performed through PLS-DA, yielded around 80% correct predictions, revealing that four out of five of samples were correctly discriminated, thus revealing that NIR can be successfully applied for screening purposes.