Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

There is a drive within the cosmetic industry towards the development of more sustainable products, supported by consumer awareness of the environmental footprint. The cosmetic industry is rising to meet consumer demand by following practices, such as the use of by-products from agro-industrial waste. Quercus suber is a tree prevalent in the Mediterranean basin. The extraction of cork is considered sustainable, as this process does not harm the tree, and the amount of cork produced increases with the number of extractions. Beyond this, the cork industry produces by-products that are used to sustain the industry itself, such as cork powder, which is reused for generating energy. Additionally, cork and cork by-products contain bioactive compounds mainly with antioxidant activity that can be of use to the cosmetic industry, such as for antiaging, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, and depigmenting cosmetic products. We provide the reader with an overview of the putative cosmetic applications of cork and its by-products as well as of their bioactive compounds. It is noteworthy that only a few cork-based cosmetic products have reached the market, namely antiaging and exfoliant products. Clearly, the use of cork upcycled cosmetic ingredients will evolve in the future considering the wide array of biological activities already reported.

Aging is an irreversible process of the human body, resulting from a progressive decrease in the biological functions of the organs, including the skin. This study analyzed the relationship between usage patterns of different types of anti-aging cosmetic products, sociodemographic variables, appearance schemes, psychological morbidity, perfectionism, and aging perception of aging with self-esteem. This cross-sectional study included a sample of 260 women, aged between 25 and 64 years, who are users of anti-aging cosmetics and/or aesthetic treatments. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory—Revised), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), aging perceptions (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale). The use of facial-firming cosmetics positively correlated with self-esteem. The results of regression analysis revealed that psychological morbidity and perfectionism contribute negatively to self-esteem, while marital status, professional status, and aging perceptions (positive consequences) contribute positively. According to the results, intervention programs to promote women’s self-esteem should focus on the reduction in psychological morbidity and the promotion of adaptive patterns of perfectionism and address aging perceptions. Longitudinal studies might help explain the complex relationship between the use of anti-aging cosmetic products and psychological variables, particularly self-esteem in women.

Quercus suber L. bark (cork) is a sustainable material due to its ability to regenerate. The aim of this work was to explore cork powders, by-products of the cork industry, as sustainable sources of value-added compounds. Two types of cork powder were studied: coarse (P0) and fine (P1). A broad physicochemical characterization was carried out, regarding particle size, color, moisture content, hygroscopicity, pH, heavy metal content, NIR spectra, and volatile compounds. DPPH scavenging activity and total phenolic content were also evaluated for an ethanolic P1 extract. For both powders, Hg, As, Cd and Pb contents were below the acceptable limits and volatile compounds commonly used as fragrances were found in their composition. P1 had a smaller and more homogenous particle size, lighter brownish color, lower pH value, and lower moisture content than P0, and therefore appears to be more suitable for industrial application. P1 ethanolic extract also showed a high scavenging activity and a content of phenolic compounds of 50.46 ± 0.63 mg (as gallic acid equivalents) per g of extract. In conclusion, P1 cork powder seems to be a promising source of upcycled ingredients, such as fragrances and antioxidants, for the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Depigmenting products are increasingly used to counteract skin hyperpigmentation and related psychosocial issues. This study aimed to compare different depigmenting agents—4-butylresorcinol; bakuchiol; tranexamic acid; ascorbyl glucoside; α-arbutin; and ascorbic acid—for photoreactivity; tyrosinase inhibition; and safety. Photoreactivity was assessed using the Reactive Oxygen Species assay. In vitro tyrosinase inhibition was compared, and cell viability was assessed in B-16V melanocytes to evaluate safety. Results showed 4-butylresorcinol, ascorbyl glucoside, and α-arbutin are non-photoreactive, while for ascorbic acid and bakuchiol it was not possible to reach conclusive results due to the lack of specificity of the ROS assay. 4-Butylresorcinol, acting as a competitive inhibitor, displayed potent tyrosinase inhibition, followed by ascorbic acid and bakuchiol. Both 4-butylresorcinol and bakuchiol reduced cell viability in a concentration-dependent manner. The insights obtained in this work support the development of depigmenting products by providing useful scientific guidance on the photostability, tyrosinase inhibitory efficacy, and skin safety of depigmenting agents.

Background/Objectives: Depigmenting cosmetic products are a fast-growing segment of the health products market, driven by consumer demand to address skin hyperpigmentation. Simultaneously, interest in products with a reduced environmental impact is increasing. However, the potential environmental risks, especially in aquatic ecosystems, of depigmenting products remain unexplored. This study assesses the usage frequency of skin depigmenting agents in cosmetic products and compiles data on the biodegradability and acute aquatic toxicity of the most prevalent compounds. Methods: A market analysis of Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies in 2022 identified prevalent depigmenting agents. Scientific evidence on their biodegradability and acute aquatic toxicity was compiled, and when data was unavailable, in silico predictions were conducted. Results: The study identified the ten most-used depigmenting agents in cosmetic products, including hydroxy/keto acids, as well as vitamin C and derivatives, with a usage frequency surpassing 50%. While most were naturally derived and showed low environmental risk, synthetic and highly lipophilic depigmenting agents found in 35 of 70 products (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate/tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and resorcinol derivatives) showed a higher potential for environmental hazard. Conclusions: The findings underscore the need for further research on the presence of these cosmetic ingredients in aquatic ecosystems and a reassessment of regulatory frameworks concerning their environmental impact. Mitigation strategies should emphasize biodegradable alternatives, renewable sources, and molecular modifications to reduce toxicity while maintaining depigmenting efficacy and skin safety. This study provides original insights into commonly used depigmenting agents in the health products market and their chemical structures, offering valuable opportunities for innovation in chemical/pharmaceutical industries.