The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of the use of green solvents, natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES), in comparison with conventional solvents on the extraction of free unbound phenolic compounds and the antioxidant activity of extracts of dried bilberry fruit, bilberry leaves and green tea leaves. After preparation of the extracts via ultrasound-assisted extraction using NaDES and conventional solvents (water and ethanol), spectrophotometric determination of total phenolic and flavonoid content, HPLC analysis of extracted polyphenols and antioxidant determination using FRAP, DPPH and ABTS assays were conducted. The results showed that NaDES have a great potential as agents for the extraction of phenolic compounds with potent antioxidant activity; the highest values of phenolic content and antioxidant activity were detected in the samples obtained by extraction using the NaDES combination betaine + urea. The bilberry leaves exhibited the highest flavonoid content among all extracts and turned out to be more active than bilberry fruits, to which they are often just a by-product during processing. The most active extract of all was the betaine-urea green tea leaves extract. Further research into the most active NaDES extracts should be performed.

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

Bilberry represents a valuable source of antioxidant substances responsible for its application for the treatment of different conditions (such as inflammation, cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, and different age-related diseases) associated with increased oxidative stress. As oxidative stress might cause skin impairments, we aim to evaluate a topical preparation containing bilberry leaves extract and bilberry seeds oil, obtained as a byproduct of the food industry. To obtain the extracts, the conventional maceration technique for leaves, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction for seeds were employed. The chemical profile of both actives was achieved by HPLC and GC methods, revealing the presence of phenolic acids (chlorogenic being the most abundant), flavonoids (isoquercetin in the highest amount), and resveratrol in leaves extract, while in seeds oil the essential ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids were determined in favorable ratio, almost being 1. Antioxidant potential of the wild bilberry extract and seed oil was evaluated using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays. Finally, effects of the oil-in-water creams with mentioned wild bilberry isolates on the skin were investigated in an in vivo study conducted on healthy human volunteers, revealing the significant beneficial effects when topically applied.

Essential oils are lipophilic secondary metabolites produced in various parts of aromatic plants and stored in specialized secretory structures. They play a vital role in plant defense, offering protection against microorganisms and herbivores. These oils are known for a wide range of biological activities, including antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, analgesic, antioxidant, and immunomodulatory effects. Given the increasing interest in natural alternatives to synthetic drugs, this review explored the therapeutic relevance of Pinus-derived essential oils as promising candidates in modern phytotherapy. Species of the genus Pinus have been widely investigated for their phytochemical composition and biological potential, with a focus on their medicinal and pharmaceutical applications. This review aimed to assess the biological properties of Pinus species commonly used in traditional medicine. In this paper, thorough insight into the chemical composition, as well as into the antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of essential oils obtained from the different parts of Pinus species, was given. Although recognized for their antimicrobial activity against a wide range of bacterial strains, including both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, the practical application of Pinus essential oils is often limited by their physicochemical instability and volatility. Therefore, this review highlighted the advances in formulation strategies, particularly encapsulation techniques, as the possible direction of future research concerning essential oils.

The dual controlled release of emulgels makes them efficient drug delivery systems of increasing interest. The framework of this study was to incorporate selected L-ascorbic acid derivatives into emulgels. From the formulated emulgels, the release profiles of actives were evaluated considering their different polarities and concentrations, and consequently their effectiveness on the skin via a long-term in vivo study that lasted for 30 days was determined. Skin effects were assessed by measuring the electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum (EC), trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index (MI) and skin pH. In addition, the sensory and textural properties of emulgel formulations were compared with each other. The changes in the rate of the release of the L-ascorbic acid derivatives were monitored using the Franz diffusion cells. The obtained data were statistically significant, and indicated an increase in the degree of hydration of the skin and skin whitening potential, while no significant changes in TEWL and pH values were detected. The consistency, firmness and stickiness of the emulgels were estimated by volunteers applying the established sensory evaluation protocol. In addition, it was revealed that the difference in hydrophilic/lipophilic properties of L-ascorbic acid derivatives influenced their release profiles without changing their textural characteristics. Therefore, this study highlighted emulgels as L-ascorbic acid suitable carrier systems and one of the promising candidates as novel drug delivery systems.