Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

Bilberry represents a valuable source of antioxidant substances responsible for its application for the treatment of different conditions (such as inflammation, cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, and different age-related diseases) associated with increased oxidative stress. As oxidative stress might cause skin impairments, we aim to evaluate a topical preparation containing bilberry leaves extract and bilberry seeds oil, obtained as a byproduct of the food industry. To obtain the extracts, the conventional maceration technique for leaves, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction for seeds were employed. The chemical profile of both actives was achieved by HPLC and GC methods, revealing the presence of phenolic acids (chlorogenic being the most abundant), flavonoids (isoquercetin in the highest amount), and resveratrol in leaves extract, while in seeds oil the essential ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids were determined in favorable ratio, almost being 1. Antioxidant potential of the wild bilberry extract and seed oil was evaluated using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays. Finally, effects of the oil-in-water creams with mentioned wild bilberry isolates on the skin were investigated in an in vivo study conducted on healthy human volunteers, revealing the significant beneficial effects when topically applied.

The framework of this study was a comprehensive investigation of Morus nigra L. extracts, with the aim to establish the correlation between chemical composition and antioxidant/hepatoprotective activity of a series of black mulberry extracts obtained from aerial parts of the plant. Black mulberry leaf (MLEE), bark (MBEE), juice (MJ) and fresh fruit (MFEE) extracts were obtained using the conventional Soxhlet extraction, while the supercritical CO₂ extraction procedure was employed for preparation of the seed oil (MSO). Analysis of the chemical composition was performed using spectrophotometric, HPLC and GC methods. For the evaluation of antioxidant activity, in vitro FRAP and DPPH assays were applied. In Haan strain NMRI mice with streptozotocin-induced oxidative stress, in vivo antioxidant activity and liver tissue integrity were examined. The content of polyphenolic compounds was the highest in MBEE (68.3 ± 0.7 mgGAE/g) with the most abundant compounds being polyphenolic acids, followed by MLEE (23.4 ± 0.5 mgGAE/g) with the flavonoids isoquercetin and rutin being present in a significant amount. An analysis of MSO revealed a high content of γ-linoleic acid. The highest antioxidant activity in vitro (FRAP and DPPH) was observed for MLEE, MBEE and MSO. Beneficial effects were confirmed in vivo, with lower values of hepatosomatic index, potentiation of the activity of the enzymes superoxide dismutase and catalase, a lower rate of lipid peroxidation and reduced positivity for the P450 enzyme in animals treated with MLEE, MBEE and MSO. Black mulberry leaf and bark extracts as well as seed oil exhibited significant antioxidant activity. Apart from the confirmed biological properties of the fruit and leaf extracts, the observed activities of black mulberry seed oil and bark extract imply its importance as a sustainable source of phytochemicals.