A pioneering and replicable method based on a 66‐year numerical weather and wave hindcast is developed to optimize a climate index based on the sea level pressure (SLP) that best explains winter wave height variability along the coast of western Europe, from Portugal to UK (36–52°N). The resulting so‐called Western Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) is based on the sea level pressure gradient between the stations Valentia (Ireland) and Santa Cruz de Tenerife (Canary Islands). The WEPA positive phase reflects an intensified and southward shifted SLP difference between the Icelandic low and the Azores high, driving severe storms that funnel high‐energy waves toward western Europe southward of 52°N. WEPA outscores by 25–150% the other leading atmospheric modes in explaining winter‐averaged significant wave height, and even by a largest amount the winter‐averaged extreme wave heights. WEPA is also the only index capturing the 2013/2014 extreme winter that caused widespread coastal erosion and flooding in western Europe.

A 69‐year (1948–2017) numerical weather and wave hindcast is used to investigate the interannual variability and trend of winter wave height along the west coast of Europe. Results show that the winter‐mean wave height, variability, and periodicity all increased significantly in the northeast Atlantic over the last seven decades which primarily correlate with changes in the climate indices North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) affecting atmospheric circulation in the North Atlantic. NAO and WEPA primarily explain the increase in winter‐mean wave height and periodicity, respectively, while both WEPA and NAO explain the increase in interannual variability. This increase in trend, variability, and periodicity resulted in more frequent high‐energy winters with high NAO and/or WEPA over the last decades. The ability of climate models to predict the winter NAO and WEPA indices a few months ahead will be crucial to anticipate coastal hazards in this region.

The energetic, macrotidal shelf off South West England was used to investigate the influence of different tide and wave conditions and their interactions on regional sand transport patterns using a coupled hydrodynamic, wave, and sediment transport model. Residual currents and sediment transport patterns are important for the transport and distribution of littoral and shelf‐sea sediments, morphological evolution of the coastal and inner continental shelf zones, and coastal planning. Waves heavily influence sand transport across this macrotidal environment. Median (50% exceedance) waves enhance transport in the tidal direction. Extreme (1% exceedance) waves can reverse the dominant transport path, shift the dominant transport phase from flood to ebb, and activate sand transport below 120‐m depth. Wave‐tide interactions (encompassing radiation stresses, Stoke's drift, enhanced bottom‐friction and bed shear stress, refraction, current‐induced Doppler shift, and wave blocking) significantly and nonlinearly enhance sand transport, determined by differencing transport between coupled, wave‐only, and tide‐only simulations. A new continental shelf classification scheme is presented based on sand transport magnitude due to wave‐forcing, tide‐forcing, and nonlinear wave‐tide interactions. Classification changes between different wave/tide conditions have implications for sand transport direction and distribution across the shelf. Nonlinear interactions dominate sand transport during extreme waves at springs across most of this macrotidal shelf. At neaps, nonlinear interactions drive a significant proportion of sand transport under median and extreme waves despite negligible tide‐induced transport. This emphasizes the critical need to consider wave‐tide interactions when considering sand transport in energetic environments globally, where previously tides alone or uncoupled waves have been considered.

Headland bypassing is the transport of sediment around rocky headlands by wave and tidal action, associated with high-energy conditions and embayment circulation (e.g., mega-rips). Bypassing may be a key component in the sediment budget of many coastal cells, the quantification of which is required to predict the coastal response to extreme events and future coastal change. Waves, currents, and water levels were measured off the headland of a sandy, exposed, and macrotidal beach in 18-m and 26-m depths for 2 months. The observations were used to validate a Delft3D morphodynamic model, which was subsequently run for a wide range of scenarios. Three modes of bypassing were determined: (i) tidally-dominated control during low–moderate wave conditions [flux O (0–10² m³ day⁻¹)]; (ii) combined tidal- and embayment circulation controls during moderate–high waves [O (10³ m³ day⁻¹)]; and (iii) multi-embayment circulation control during extreme waves [O (10⁴ m³ day⁻¹)]. A site-specific bypass parameter is introduced, which accurately (R² = 0.95) matches the modelled bypass rates. A 5-year hindcast predicts bypassing is an order of magnitude less than observed cross-shore fluxes during extreme events, suggesting that bypassing at this site is insignificant at annual timescales. This work serves a starting point to generalise the prediction of headland bypassing.

Improved understanding of how our coasts will evolve over a range of time scales (years‐decades) is critical for effective and sustainable management of coastal infrastructure. A robust knowledge of the spatial, directional and temporal variability of the inshore wave climate is required to predict future coastal evolution and hence vulnerability. However, the variability of the inshore directional wave climate has received little attention, and an improved understanding could drive development of skillful seasonal or decadal forecasts of coastal response. We examine inshore wave climate at 63 locations throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland (1980–2017) and show that 73% are directionally bimodal. We find that winter‐averaged expressions of six leading atmospheric indices are strongly correlated (r = 0.60–0.87) with both total and directional winter wave power (peak spectral wave direction) at all studied sites. Regional inshore wave climate classification through hierarchical cluster analysis and stepwise multi‐linear regression of directional wave correlations with atmospheric indices defined four spatially coherent regions. We show that combinations of indices have significant skill in predicting directional wave climates (R² = 0.45–0.8; p < 0.05). We demonstrate for the first time the significant explanatory power of leading winter‐averaged atmospheric indices for directional wave climates, and show that leading seasonal forecasts of the NAO skillfully predict wave climate in some regions.

We analyze Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of wave‐induced circulation collected during a 3‐week field experiment at a high‐energy mesotidal barred beach with the presence of a 500‐m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave and tide conditions were found to largely impact circulation patterns. Three main regimes were identified depending on offshore wave obliquity: (1) Under shore‐normal configuration, the flow was dominated by cross‐shore motions, except for moderate waves at low tide, with the presence of a quasi‐steady circulation cell on the reef. (2) Under shadowed configuration, an onshore‐directed current flowing away from the headland and a weak oscillating eddy were present outside and inside the shadow region, respectively. (3) Under deflection configuration, a deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone was present, with activity maximized around low tide for moderate waves. Under 4‐m oblique waves, the deflection rip was active regardless of the tide with mean depth‐averaged velocities up to 0.7 m/s 800‐m offshore in 12‐m depth, with energetic low‐frequency fluctuations. Our results emphasize the ability of deflection rips to transport materials far offshore, suggesting that such rips can transport sediment beyond the depth of closure. This study indicates that a wide variety of wave‐driven circulation patterns can occur and sometimes coexist on beaches with prominent geological settings. Changes in the dominant driving mechanism can occur as a result of small changes in wave and tide conditions, resulting in more spatially and temporally variable circulation than along open sandy beaches.