On the basis of field experiments and numerical modeling, we show that coastal zones are classifiable according to manifestations of wind wave nonlinearity, which herein is recognized as periodic...

An analysis of the variability of wave climate and energy within the Black Sea for the period 1960–2011 was made using field data from the Voluntary Observing Ship Program. Methods using wavelet analysis were applied. It was determined that the power flux of wave energy in the Black Sea fluctuates: the highest value is 4.2 kW/m, the lowest is 1.4 kW/m. Results indicate significant correlations among the fluctuations of the average annual wave heights, periods, the power flux of wave energy, and teleconnection patterns of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), the Atlantic Multi-decadal Oscillation (AMO), the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO) and the East Atlantic/West Russia (EA/WR). It was revealed that, in positive phases of long-term periods of AMO (50–60 years) as well as PDO, NAO, and AO (40 years), a decrease of wave energy was observed; however, an increase in wave energy was observed in the positive phase of a 15-year period of NAO and AO. The positive phase of changes of EA/WR for periods 50–60, 20–25, and 13 years led to an increase of wave energy. The approximation functions of the oscillations of the average annual wave heights, periods, and the power flux of wave energy for the Black Sea are proposed.

On the basis of field experiment data, the main features of influence of non-linear wave transformation scenarios on cross-shore sediment transport in coastal zones were investigated. The bottom deformations due to the non-linear wave transformation follow the specific scenario. The increase in the second non-linear harmonic amplitude leads to the erosion of the underwater slope at the distances corresponding to this process, with the subsequent accumulation of sandy material closer to the shore at distances where the amplitude decreases during the backward energy transfer to the first harmonic. This can be explained by the change in the phase shift between harmonics during non-linear wave transformation. The second harmonic maximum provides the point near which the bottom deformations occur in different directions. Scenarios of non-linear wave transformation in which backward energy transfer from the second non-linear harmonic to the first is close to the shoreline will contribute to the transport and accumulation of the sediment on the coast. These scenarios are more characteristic of “small waves”. The scenario without a periodical exchange of wave energy between non-linear harmonics (with an increase in the second harmonic only) that is characteristic of large storm waves and plunging breaking waves will lead to the erosion of the underwater bottom profile.

The nonlinear transformation of waves in the coastal zone over the sloping bottom is considered on the base of field, laboratory, and numerical experiments by methods of spectral and wavelet analyses. The nonlinearity leads to substantial changes of wave shape during its propagation to the shore. Since these changes occur rapidly, the wave movement is non-periodical in space, and the application of linear theory concepts of wavenumber or wavelength results in some paradoxical phenomena. When analyzing the spatial evolution of waves in the frequency domain, the effect of periodic energy exchange and changes in the phase shift between the first and second wave harmonics are observed. When considering the wavenumber domain, the free and bound waves of both the first and second harmonics with constant in space amplitudes appear, and all spatial fluctuations of the wave parameters are caused by interference of these four harmonics. Practically important consequences such as the wave energy spatial fluctuations and of anomalous dispersion of the second harmonic are shown and discussed.