This paper presents an investigation into the use of a 2-dimensional laser scanner (LiDAR) to obtain measurements of wave processes in the inner surf and swash zones of a microtidal beach (Rousty, Camargue, France). The bed is extracted at the wave-by-wave timescale using a variance threshold method on the time series. Individual wave properties were then retrieved from a local extrema analysis. Finally, individual and averaged wave celerities are obtained using a crest-tracking method and cross-correlation technique, respectively, and compared with common wave celerity predictors. Very good agreement was found between the individual wave properties and the wave spectrum analysis, showing the great potential of the scanner to be used in the surf and swash zone for studies of nearshore waves at the wave-by-wave timescale.

Following the rapid and destructive impacts of storm erosion, beach recovery is a key natural process of restoration, returning eroded sediment to the subaerial beach and rebuilding coastal morphology. While the effects of storm erosion have commonly been investigated, detailed studies into poststorm recovery are currently lacking. This study investigates wave‐driven recovery processes of the berm and beachface on a microtidal, swash‐aligned sandy beach. Following complete removal of the berm by a significant storm event, the entire 76‐day rebuilding of a swash berm is analyzed at the timescale of every semidiurnal tidal cycle, utilizing high‐resolution (5 Hz) swash and subaerial beach profile measurements from a continuously scanning fixed lidar. Tide‐by‐tide rates of subaerial volume change during berm recovery were most frequently observed between 1 and 2 m³/m/day, including losses and gains an order of magnitude larger than the more gradual rate of net gain (0.7 m³/m/day) observed for the entire recovery period. Patterns of berm crest formation and vertical growth were found to be primarily governed by the neap‐spring tide variations in total water levels. Tide‐by‐tide beachface and berm volume changes were used to classify four principal behavioral modes of subaerial profile variability during recovery. Using decision tree classification, modes were differentiated according to nearshore dimensionless fall velocity, swash exceedance of the berm crest, and ocean water levels. The findings provide novel behavioral and parametric insight into the tide‐by‐tide rebuilding of the beachface and berm by swash throughout a complete poststorm recovery period.

A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Lidar scanner observations of wave height at the lower foreshore, subsequent run-up and swash-induced topographic changes were obtained. These data were complemented by detailed real-time kinematic GPS topographic surveys. Variable wave and tide conditions were experienced during the field experiment with relatively large swell waves (offshore significant wave height, H_s = 0.9 m to 1.3 m; peak wave period, T_p = 8 to 12 s) concomitant with spring tides at the beginning of the period, followed by mild wind waves (offshore H_s under 0.5 m and T_p 5 s) and neap tides. This resulted in the following morphological sequence: berm erosion followed by rapid neap berm reformation and beach recovery within a few days. New insights into the link between intra-tidal swash dynamics and daily beach profile evolution were found using the Lidar dataset. While waves directly cause morphology changes on a wave-by-wave basis, tidal levels were found to be a key factor in determining the morphological wave-effect (accretive or erosive) due to modulated interaction between surf and swash hydro-morphodynamics.

The secondary wave field associated with undular tidal bores (known as whelps) has been barely studied in field conditions: the wave field can be strongly non-hydrostatic, and the turbidity is generally high. In situ measurements based on pressure or acoustic signals can therefore be limited or inadequate. The intermittent nature of this process in the field and the complications encountered in the downscaling to laboratory conditions also render its study difficult. Here, we present a new methodology based on LiDAR technology to provide high spatial and temporal resolution measurements of the free surface of an undular tidal bore. A wave-by-wave analysis is performed on the whelps, and comparisons between LiDAR, acoustic and pressure-derived measurements are used to quantify the non-hydrostatic nature of this phenomenon. A correction based on linear wave theory applied on individual wave properties improves the results from the pressure transducer (Root mean square error, $RMSE$ of $0.19$ m against $0.38$ m); however, more robust data is obtained from an upwards-looking acoustic sensor despite high turbidity during the passage of the whelps ( $RMSE$ of $0.05$ m). Finally, the LiDAR scanner provides the unique possibility to study the wave geometry: the distribution of measured wave height, period, celerity, steepness and wavelength are presented. It is found that the highest wave from the whelps can be steeper than the bore front, explaining why breaking events are sometimes observed in the secondary wave field of undular tidal bores.

Matias, A., Masselink, G., Kroon, A., Blenkinsopp, C., and Turner, I.L., 2013. Overwash experiment on a sandy barrier This paper uses results obtained from the large-scale BARDEX II experiment undertaken in the Delta flume to investigate the morphological response of a prototype sandy barrier to wave and tidal forcing during overwash conditions. Since overwash processes are known to control short-term barrier dynamics and long-term barrier migration, the development of a robust quantitative method to define the critical conditions leading to barrier overwash is important both for scientific and practical management purposes. The Overwash Potential (OP), defined as the difference between the wave runup and the barrier elevation is used to define the overwash threshold condition, and to predict the morphological outcome of a particular overwash event. When OP is negative, wave runup is lower than the barrier crest and insignificant morphological changes are noticed at the barrier crest. When OP is ...