Textile metal threads were used to decorate historical Croatian textiles. There are three basic types of metal threads usually used on historical textiles in Croatia. These are narrow stripes, wires, and combined metal textile yarn called “srma”, made of metal thread spirally wrapped around the nonmetal textile yarn. Textile yarns were made of silk, linen, wool, or cotton. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, and copper, and different alloys of these metals or threads are layered in the structure. Analysis of metal threads with three different methods was made and the most adequate method for the analysis of metal threads from historical textiles was established. Metal thread analysis was performed with scanning electron microscopy with an energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDX), which was determined to be the most suitable for the analysis of historical textiles if cross-section analysis of metal threads is also performed. Textile threads from combined metal textile threads were analysed with a light microscope. This information of the metal threads’ content and structure as well as the composition of textile thread can lead to an understanding of the technology of production threads and also temporal and spatial dating of textile objects which is helpful to conservators and restorers of valuable historical textiles.

The existing research deals with the process of modifying polyester knitted fabrics and polyester/cotton knitted fabrics with chitosan and the stability of functionalized surface with chitosan in the washing process according to a standard and an innovative washing procedure. The current research concept aims to evaluate the degree of progressivity and progressiveness: the modification of polyester knitted fabrics with chitosan and an innovative washing process. The polyester and polyester/cotton fabrics modified with chitosan were characterized by a staining test, microscopic analysis, zeta potential measurement, and pilling tendency of the knitted fabrics before and after five and ten washing cycles with reference detergent ECE A. The results of the zeta potential measurement of knitted fabrics functionalized with chitosan confirmed cationization of the polyester and polyester/cotton fabric with chitosan. The presence of chitosan on the washed knitted fabrics in reduced quantities is demonstrated by the staining test, the colour strength (K/S), and the zeta potential values. The staining test and surface charge of the tested knitted fabrics confirmed the research hypothesis regarding the degree of progressivity of the modification of polyester and polyester/cotton knitted fabrics with chitosan and the sustainability of the innovative washing process. The streaming potential proved to be a favorable method for monitoring the stability of chitosan in the washing process in combination with a staining test with the selected dye Remazol Red RB.

This article deals with the analysis of metal threads in weaving from historical Croatian textiles, liturgical vestments, and folk costumes from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. The independent narrow stripes, wires, and the srma that was formed by a combination of metal thread wrapped around a non-metal textile yarn were collected and analysed. Using physicochemical method scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX), the metal composition and content in the threads were analysed. By cross-sectional analysis of metal threads by the SEM-EDX method, it was determined whether the metal threads were homogeneous, gilded, or silver-plated. The composition and structure of non-metal textile yarns were determined by light microscopy. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, or copper and their alloys, but recently less valuable metals having a similar shine have generally been used. Non-metal textile threads in srma are most often made of silk, cotton, and linen. The aim of this study was to determine which type and composition of metal threads were used in different regions of Croatia, which can serve as a database for the restoration and conservation of valuable historical textiles. Also, according to the composition of metal threads, the technology of production threads can be determined and the temporal and spatial dating of textile objects can be determined approximately.

By studying and analysing a great number of textile metal threads from different time periods in Croatia, from archaeological sites to preserved specimens from various museum collections, change can be seen through the centuries. Metal threads decorate textiles not only for aesthetic purposes, but also to display wealth, assert authority, and command respect. Primarily, such decorated clothing was worn for liturgical purposes, ceremonial folk customs, or to mark high military ranks. Through the characteristics of these threads, one can see the change in the customs and lives of the people who used them in different ways and for different purposes. The shine and luxury that the first gold metal threads have can be achieved with lower quality threads like silver, copper, and their alloys. As the quality of metal textile threads decreased, they became cheaper and more applicable in everyday life. The use of metal textile threads on clothing increased, and through the century, they became a clothing part for all people, not just the privileged. Analyses of metal threads were performed with scanning electron microscopy with an energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDX) due to its sensitivity and suitability for the observation of metal threads from various textiles. The type of textile cores from the combined textile metal threads was determined through a laboratory optical microscope. Differences have been observed between archaeological and historical textile metal threads in terms of physical properties, as well as textile and metal composition. Archaeological samples are combined textile metal threads that have a metal component of gilded silver and a textile component of silk. While more recent historical samples have different types of metal threads, from individual threads of lamellae and wires to combined textile metal threads. Most samples have cotton as a textile component, while copper, alone or in alloys, predominates in the metal threads.