Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.
Lignin has been suggested as a promising candidate for cosmetic applications due to its remarkable potential to absorb ultraviolet rays and distinctive antioxidant activity. This study aims at evaluating the performance of lignin from sugarcane bagasse (SCB) as natural UV blocker, antioxidant, and pigment. Lignin was extracted from SCB, characterized and incorporated into a blemish balm (BB) cream. The biological potential, concretely, in vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) and in vitro UVA-PF, and safety were assessed. A high-purity SCB lignin (>92 %) was obtained by a mild alkaline extraction process. The results of cytotoxicity, mutagenicity, skin sensitization and in vivo acute cutaneous irritation demonstrated that SCB lignin is safe for topical applications. Lignin showed capacity to scavenge both ABTS and DPPH radicals, which were preserved after its incorporation into the cosmetic formulation. Notable results were achieved in terms of in vitro and in vivo SPF of 9.5 ± 2.9 and 9.6 ± 0.8, respectively. Furthermore, the tested lignin-based BB cream revealed a broad-spectrum UV protection (critical wavelength of 378 ± 0.5 nm). These results suggest SCB lignin as multifunctional and safe ingredient for use in cosmetic products.