High crystallinity leads to low hydrophilicity of fabric made of (poly(ethylene terephthalate)) fibers (PET) causing problems in finishing, washing, and dyeing processes. To improve these properties, the surface of PET fibers is usually modified by hydrolysis. Alkaline hydrolysis is a conventional process usually performed at a temperature higher than 100 °C for more than 1 h. However, the use of strong alkali and high processing temperatures (>100 °C) can lead to fabric damage and a negative impact on the environment. Therefore, in this paper, the possibility of hydrolysis of the PET fibers in the fabric in a sustainable, energy-efficient process was researched. The influence of low temperature (60–100 °C) and an accelerator (a cationic surfactant HDTMAC) to PET alkaline hydrolysis was studied through weight loss, the loss in breaking force, and fiber morphology. The kinetics of PET dissolution in 1.5 mol cm⁻³ NaOH at low temperature with and without the addition of HDTMAC was determined and the activation energy was calculated according to the theoretical model. It has been confirmed that PET hydrolysis can be carried out in 1.5 mol cm⁻³ NaOH with the addition of HDTMAC as an accelerator at 80 °C for 10 min. This process is more economically and energetically acceptable than the conventional process, and is therefore more sustainable.

Natural dyes are not harmful to the environment owing to their biodegradability. For dye application to textiles, salts are necessary as mordant or electrolytes and make an environmental impact. In this paper, the influence of cationization during mercerization to the dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye from Dactylopius coccus was researched. For this purpose, bleached cotton fabric as well as fabric cationized with Rewin OS was pre-mordanted using iron(II) sulfate heptahydrate (FeSO₄·7H₂O) and dyed with natural cochineal dye with and without electrolyte addition. For the characterization of surface changes after cationization, an electrokinetic analysis on SurPASS was performed and compared to pre-mordanting. For determination of dye exhaustion, the analysis of dye solution was performed on a UV/VIS spectrophotometer Cary 50 Solascreen. Spectrophotometric analysis was performed using a Datacolor 850 spectrophotometer, measuring remission ”until tolerance” and the whiteness degree, color parameters, color depth (K/S), and colorfastness of dyed fabric were calculated. Levelness was determined by visual assessment. Cationized cotton fabrics showed better absorption and colorfastness. Pre-mordanting and cationization showed synergism. The electrolytes improved the process of dye absorption. However, when natural dyeing was performed on cotton fabric cationized during mercerization, similar chromacity, uniform color, and colorfastness were achieved with and without electrolyte, resulting in pure purple hue of cochineal. For achieving a violet hue, pre-mordanting with Fe-salt was needed. Therefore, salt can be reduced or even unnecessary, which makes this process of natural dyeing more environmentally friendly.

This article deals with cationization of cotton during mercerization and its effects on trichromatic vat dyeing. If cationization is carried out during the after-treatment, regardless of cotton pretreatment, the reaction takes place on the surface and blocks cellulose groups, subsequently resulting in uneven coloration. However, when cationization is carried out with an epihalohydrin during the mercerization process, new cellulose is formed in which the cationic compound is uniformly distributed and trapped between cellulose chains, resulting in uniform coloration after the dyeing process. The reaction time for the process during mercerization is 24 h, thus a more favorable process was researched. Based on electrokinetic analysis, it was found that 5 h was sufficient for the reaction with 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (CHPTAC). The cationization of cotton contributed to the processes of vat dyeing. The change in charge upon cationization resulted in very high adsorption of vat-dye anions, indicating that ionic bonding occurred in addition to van der Waals forces. The color depth improved by more than 10 times. It should be emphasized that the colors with higher chroma and targeted color hue, especially in trichromatic dyeing, were obtained on cationized cotton, in contrast to standard cotton fabrics. The color differences obtained under the different light sources indicate the occurrence of metamerism. Considering the color fastness to laundering, vat-dyed cationized fabrics of all colors may be used in hospitals or other environments where high hygiene and oxidative bleaching are required.

This article investigates the activation of surface groups of poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fibers in woven fabric by hydrolysis and their functionalization with chitosan. Two types of hydrolysis were performed—alkaline and enzymatic. The alkaline hydrolysis was performed in a more sustainable process at reduced temperature and time (80 °C, 10 min) with the addition of the cationic surfactant hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride as an accelerator. The enzymatic hydrolysis was performed using Amano Lipase A from Aspergillus niger (2 g/L enzyme, 60 °C, 60 min, pH 9). The surface of the PET fabric was functionalized with the homogenized gel of biopolymer chitosan using a pad–dry–cure process. The durability of functionalization was tested after the first and tenth washing cycle of a modified industrial washing process according to ISO 15797:2017, in which the temperature was lowered from 75 °C to 50 °C, and ε-(phthalimido) peroxyhexanoic acid (PAP) was used as an environmentally friendly agent for chemical bleaching and disinfection. The influence of the above treatments was analyzed by weight loss, tensile properties, horizontal wicking, the FTIR-ATR technique, zeta potential measurement and SEM micrographs. The results indicate better hydrophilicity and effectiveness of both types of hydrolysis, but enzymatic hydrolysis is more environmentally friendly and favorable. In addition, alkaline hydrolysis led to a 20% reduction in tensile properties, while the action of the enzyme resulted in a change of only 2%. The presence of chitosan on polyester fibers after repeated washing was confirmed on both fabrics by zeta potential and SEM micrographs. However, functionalization with chitosan on the enzymatically bioactivated surface showed better durability after 10 washing cycles than the alkaline-hydrolyzed one. The antibacterial activity of such a bio-innovative modified PET fabric is kept after the first and tenth washing cycles. In addition, applied processes can be easily introduced to any textile factory.

The purpose of the research was to measure the increase in the binding of inclusion complexes β-cyclodextrin-peppermint oil (β-CD_PM) to cellulose in cotton and cotton/polyester material with BTCA as the crosslinking agent by applying an ultrasonic bath at room temperature and a frequency of 80 kHz for 10 min. After sonication, the samples were left in a bath for 24 h after which they were dried, thermocondensed and subjected to a number of wash cycles. The treated samples were analysed with Attenuated total reflection (ATR) units heated up to 300 °C (Golden Gate (FTIR-ATR)) to monitor chemical changes indicative of crosslinking, while physico-chemical changes in the samples were monitored by using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR). Mechanical properties were measured according to EN ISO 13934-1:1999, and coloristic changes were evaluated by the whiteness degree according to CIE (WCIE) and the yellowing index (YI), while antimicrobial activity was determined according to AATCC TM 147-2016. The results show a physico-chemical modification of the UZV-treated cellulosic material. Moreover, partial antimicrobial efficacy on Gram-negative bacteria was confirmed for treated fabrics.

In the interests of using green and sustainable chemical innovations to create sustainable products with minimized (or no) chemical hazard potential, the polyester fabric in this work was activated and functionalized with chitosan and its durability was investigated. Chitosan is a natural biopolymer derived from chitin. As it has good biocompatibility, bio-absorption, anti-infectious, antibacterial and hemostatic properties and accelerates wound healing, it is increasingly being researched for the antimicrobial treatment of textiles. Due to the increased demands on the durability of antimicrobial properties during care, its binding to cellulose in cotton and cotton–polyester blends has been researched, but not to polyester alone. Therefore, the functionalization of polyester fabrics with chitosan by thermosol in the form of submicron particles and pad-dry-curing with homogenized gel was investigated in this work. The functionalization with chitosan was carried out on untreated polyester fabric and polyester fabric activated by alkali hydrolysis. In order to reduce the release of chemical substances during the entire life cycle of textile production, no binder was used. The effects were evaluated by electrokinetic analysis (zeta potential), and the mechanical, spectral, moisture management and antimicrobial properties were determined using standard methods. The functionalized polyester fabrics were submitted to 10 washing cycles in a solution of non-ionic surfactant for determination of its durability. It was shown that the functionalization of hydrolyzed polyester fabric with homogenized chitosan gel by pad-dry-curing results in excellent antimicrobial efficacy and moisture management properties while maintaining the mechanical properties of the fabric even after 10 washing cycles.