High crystallinity leads to low hydrophilicity of fabric made of (poly(ethylene terephthalate)) fibers (PET) causing problems in finishing, washing, and dyeing processes. To improve these properties, the surface of PET fibers is usually modified by hydrolysis. Alkaline hydrolysis is a conventional process usually performed at a temperature higher than 100 °C for more than 1 h. However, the use of strong alkali and high processing temperatures (>100 °C) can lead to fabric damage and a negative impact on the environment. Therefore, in this paper, the possibility of hydrolysis of the PET fibers in the fabric in a sustainable, energy-efficient process was researched. The influence of low temperature (60–100 °C) and an accelerator (a cationic surfactant HDTMAC) to PET alkaline hydrolysis was studied through weight loss, the loss in breaking force, and fiber morphology. The kinetics of PET dissolution in 1.5 mol cm⁻³ NaOH at low temperature with and without the addition of HDTMAC was determined and the activation energy was calculated according to the theoretical model. It has been confirmed that PET hydrolysis can be carried out in 1.5 mol cm⁻³ NaOH with the addition of HDTMAC as an accelerator at 80 °C for 10 min. This process is more economically and energetically acceptable than the conventional process, and is therefore more sustainable.

Chitosan is an environmentally friendly agent that is used to achieve the antimicrobial properties of textiles. Nowadays, the binding of chitosan to the textiles has been thoroughly researched due to the increasing demands on the stability of achieved properties during the textile care processes. Most crosslinking agents for chitosan are not safe for humans or environment, such as glutaric aldehyde (GA) and formaldehyde derivatives. Eco-friendly polycarboxyilic acids (PCAs) are usually used in after-treatment. In this work, chitosan powder was dissolved in citric acid with sodium hydrophosphite (SHP) as a catalyst. Standard cotton (CO) and polyester/cotton (PES/CO) fabrics were pretreated in 20% NaOH, similar to mercerization, in order to open the structure of the cotton fibers and hydrolyze polyester fibers, continued by finishing in the gelatin chitosan bath. Afterwards, the hot rinsing process, followed by drying and curing, closed the achieved structure. The main objective was to achieve durable antimicrobial properties to multiple maintenance cycles CO and PES/CO fabric in order to apply it in a hospital environment. The characterization of fabrics was performed after treatment, first and fifth washing cycles according ISO 6330:2012 by field emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR), electrokinetic analysis (EKA), by the determination of tensile properties and mechanical damage (wear), and the antimicrobial activity. The application of 20% NaOH led to the swelling and mercerization of cotton cellulose, and hydrolysis of polyester, resulting in better mechanical properties. It has been confirmed that the chitosan particles were well implemented into the cotton fiber and onto to the polyester component of PES/CO blend. The presence of chitosan was confirmed after five washing cycles, but in lower quantity. However, achieved antimicrobial activity is persistent.

Natural dyes are not harmful to the environment owing to their biodegradability. For dye application to textiles, salts are necessary as mordant or electrolytes and make an environmental impact. In this paper, the influence of cationization during mercerization to the dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye from Dactylopius coccus was researched. For this purpose, bleached cotton fabric as well as fabric cationized with Rewin OS was pre-mordanted using iron(II) sulfate heptahydrate (FeSO₄·7H₂O) and dyed with natural cochineal dye with and without electrolyte addition. For the characterization of surface changes after cationization, an electrokinetic analysis on SurPASS was performed and compared to pre-mordanting. For determination of dye exhaustion, the analysis of dye solution was performed on a UV/VIS spectrophotometer Cary 50 Solascreen. Spectrophotometric analysis was performed using a Datacolor 850 spectrophotometer, measuring remission ”until tolerance” and the whiteness degree, color parameters, color depth (K/S), and colorfastness of dyed fabric were calculated. Levelness was determined by visual assessment. Cationized cotton fabrics showed better absorption and colorfastness. Pre-mordanting and cationization showed synergism. The electrolytes improved the process of dye absorption. However, when natural dyeing was performed on cotton fabric cationized during mercerization, similar chromacity, uniform color, and colorfastness were achieved with and without electrolyte, resulting in pure purple hue of cochineal. For achieving a violet hue, pre-mordanting with Fe-salt was needed. Therefore, salt can be reduced or even unnecessary, which makes this process of natural dyeing more environmentally friendly.