Department of Hydraulics, Energy and Environmental Engineering, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, ETSI Caminos, Canales y Puertos; C/ Profesor Aranguren, s/n; 28071 Madrid; Spain
Dr. Luis Moreno
Department of Hydraulics, Energy and Environmental Engineering, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, ETSI Caminos, Canales y Puertos; C/ Profesor Aranguren, s/n; 28071 Madrid; Spain
The shoreline is the interface between sea and land influenced by natural, anthropogenic factors and climate change. The study of the evolution of the shoreline provides information to evaluate accretion or erosion processes. Shoreline erosion represents a threat to the safety of the coastal population, reducing the extension of the beach zone and making human settlements vulnerable to extreme events. This research presents the analysis of the evolution of the shoreline by multispectral images from Landsat satellites and the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) of the Pacific Coast of Panama for the period of 1998–2021. The automated shoreline extraction was generated by combining remote sensing techniques, such as the Histogram Threshold Method and the Band Ratio Method, to generate binary images delineating the land and water zone. The most vulnerable zone, due to erosion processes and the exposition of urban areas, corresponds to the zone of Serena beach and Coronado beach with an average negative distance movement of −23.95 m. Finally, it was concluded that there is a general tendency of erosion processes in the study zone with a rate for long-term analysis of −1.12 m/y (zone I), −1.01 m/y (zone II), and −1.08 m/y (zone III).
Fringing reefs have significant impacts on beach dynamics, yet there is little research on how they should be considered in beach nourishment design, monitoring, and conservation works. Thus, the behavior and characteristics of nourishment projects at two reef protected beaches, Royal Hawaiian Beach (RHB) in Hawaii, USA, and Victoria Beach (VB) in Cadiz, Spain, are compared to provide transferable information for future nourishment projects and monitoring in fringing reef environments. The nourishment cost at RHB was nine times higher than VB. This is partly due to lower total volume and a more complex placement and spreading method at RHB, despite the much closer borrow site at RHB. There was a significant difference in post-nourishment monitoring frequency and assessment of accuracy. RHB elevation was monitored quarterly for 2.7 years at 30 m-spaced profiles, compared to 5 years of biannual surveys of 50 m-spacing at VB. An additional problem related to the presence of reefs at both RHB and VB was estimating the beach volume increase after nourishment, due to variable definitions of the ‘beach’ area and high alongshore variability in reef topography. At sites where non-native sediment is used, it is imperative to understand how wave and current energy changes due to reefs will influence nourishment longevity. Thus, differences in erosion and accretion mechanisms at both beaches have been detected, though are still little understood. Moreover, discrepancies in sediment porosity between the two sites (which should be surveyed in future nourishments) have been found, probably due to differences in the nourishment sand transportation and distribution methods. In summary, more dialogue is needed to explicitly consider the influence of fringing reefs on coastal processes and beach nourishment projects.
Long-term erosion is experienced by most of the coastlines worldwide, and it is usually attributed not only to sea level rise but also to the retention of sand in dams, the occupation of dry beaches by urbanized areas, the disturbance of the natural patterns of longshore drift, the mining of sand as building material for construction, and so on
Estimation of wave run-up has been of increasing concern for offshore wind structures and a critical aspect for designers. The highly nonlinear phenomenon makes the study difficult. That is the reason for the very few design rules and experimental data available to estimate it. Actual wave run-up is greater than commonly predicted. The goal of this research is to benchmark the theoretical formulations with the results of the physical model tests performed by Deltares in the field of crest elevation, run-up, forces and pressures. The laboratory reproduced in a wave tank (75 m length; 8.7 m width; 1 m depth; and a 1:60 scale, with Froude similarity) an offshore power converter platform located at intermediate water depths (25–43.80 m) in the Southern North Sea, designed by the Norwegian company Aibel. The purpose of this research is to offer a preliminary design guide for wave run–up using theoretical expressions both for cylinders and gravity based structures (GBS), leaning on the cited laboratory tests to validate the results obtained by such theoretical models.
Moreno, L.; Negro, V.; Garrote, L.; Muñoz-Pérez, J.J.; López, J.S., and Esteban, M.D., 2018. An Engineering Method For The Preliminary Functional Design Of Perched Beaches. Theoretical Approach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1261–1265. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Perched beaches are an attractive nourishment design alternative especially when either the site conditions or the characteristics of both the native and the borrow sands lead to a non-intersecting profile. The observation and suggestion of the use of this type of coastal defense scheme dates back to the 1960's, as well as the international experience in its construction. However, in spite of its use and the field and laboratory studies performed to-date, no design engineering guidance is available to support its design. Key dimensionless parameters that will be...